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  #1  
Old 17-12-2016, 05:14 PM
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Default Meet Edith

This my "new" AJS
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Old 17-12-2016, 10:33 PM
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I was wondering if you did the deed.
A little beauty, are you going to do things with it?
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Old 17-12-2016, 11:08 PM
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Fucking lovely mate!!!
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Old 18-12-2016, 07:18 AM
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Now, that is a "proper" bike! All you need to do now is hard tail the back end stick some 12" overs on some springers, a peanut tank......What?
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Old 18-12-2016, 07:19 AM
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Looks more like an Ethel to me.....
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Old 18-12-2016, 07:53 AM
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Default like that.

like that harry, lovely.
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Old 18-12-2016, 11:21 AM
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Very nice indeed.....
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Old 18-12-2016, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by HOS View Post
I was wondering if you did the deed.
A little beauty, are you going to do things with it?
I want it to look original but with 12 volt electrics to make it usable in modern traffic.

First job is to get it reliable (Stop laughing at the back) it works when it feels like it at the moment.
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Old 18-12-2016, 12:01 PM
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Looks more like an Ethel to me.....
Edith was a character in "Old Harry's Game" a radio 4 sit com, set in hell.

It was bloody funny Edith caused Satan (Old Harry) a lot of problems often resulting in him "Getting one of my headaches"
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Old 19-12-2016, 06:17 AM
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Electronic ignition is the way to go Harry!
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Old 19-12-2016, 09:27 AM
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Electronic ignition is the way to go Harry!
Yes quite probably aint looked at that yet.

12 volt alternators are readily available so would work nicely together.

I do like the look of the plethora of levers on the bars so would like to keep the manual advance retard.

The look on peoples faces seconds after they ask what the levers do is hilarious.
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Old 27-01-2017, 09:30 AM
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Iíve had the cough thatís going around hence slow going. However hereís a report on progress ao far.
Leaking fuel taps replaced. New fuel added to tank. (The old stuff went in the car you just canít trust modern petrol) Noticed fuel tank knocking on top frame tube, obtained correct rubber mountings for tank but the bolts have been replaced with studs that arenít long enough so cut down rubbers to get a compromise that works. Primary case filled with oil, oil cleaned up from floor. Dismantled primary case cleaned it resealed it with silicone (Got a new seal from club spares scheme now) Topped up gearbox, cleaned floor again. New seals and bushes fitted to outer cover, topped up gearbox again. Magneto points gap adjusted checked timing. Lubricated cables, noticed both clevis pins in rear brake linkage have no split pins. Removed sump plug as it was leaking, didnít need a spanner. It went back in with the aid of a spanner and cosily wrapped in PTFE tape.
Edith started first kick. We went for a ride, still not happy with some noises and poor running at over half throttle. Went home put bike on side stand with engine ticking over (too fast). I checked for oil leaks and noticed a bad one from the cylinder base gasket. I had to use a spanner to do up the base nuts as they were too hot to touch, not because they were more than finger tight. Tightened silencer mounting bolts till I got bored then fitted new nuts and bolts (sorry to say with metric as thatís all I had that fitted.) Then I spent the next hour kicking it over. Had lunch. Edith started first kick after lunch. Attempted to get a nice tickover by fiddling with throttle stop idle screw and manual advance lever. Sounds nice for a bit then falters and dies. Repeat ad nauseum. Iíve already cleaned the carb and fuel system, that carb is new. Having been an AA patrol for 25 years I have a distrust of new things. When the bike is idling I can gently open the throttle and its fine snatching a big handful of throttle and it dies. Hhmmm. Best I find out what jets should be in that carb and see if they match whatís in there.
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Old 27-01-2017, 03:37 PM
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my 125 had that accelerate slow and all is fine whack it open and it dies issue and it was float height too low so not enough fuel in float bowl
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Old 27-01-2017, 03:52 PM
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If its an Amal carb it could be the needle jet position.
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Old 28-01-2017, 06:03 AM
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Of course, if you had bought a "modern" bike you'd get none of this hassle and be able to ride it all day!...Just sayin' like....!
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Old 28-01-2017, 01:00 PM
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Of course, if you had bought a "modern" bike you'd get none of this hassle and be able to ride it all day!...Just sayin' like....!
Ha! Ha! Ha! You'd think.............
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Old 29-01-2017, 06:02 AM
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I must admit my "modern" bike, a Yamaha Fazer 600 is now 17 years old!!!!
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Old 29-01-2017, 01:10 PM
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You never got factory recalls on 40's 50's or 60's bikes unlike today ....
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Old 29-01-2017, 04:13 PM
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Well I was right to be wary of new shiny bits. The obviously new Amal monobloc Carb had the float needle upside down. WTF.

How it ran at all is a mystery. It now pulls like a train. But still starts firt kick when it wants to and not at all when it don't. Also it ticksover beautifully till it falters and dies.

But I'm making progress a bit at a time.
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Old 29-01-2017, 04:32 PM
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I'd be looking at the float level, sounds like she's not getting enough fuel.

If you look for Lunmad on Youtube he does an Amal strip and sets the float heights.
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Old 29-01-2017, 11:23 PM
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Quote:
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I'd be looking at the float level, sounds like she's not getting enough fuel.

If you look for Lunmad on Youtube he does an Amal strip and sets the float heights.
I've checked the fuel level, its a right palaver on the monobloc. You take the cap off the idle jet and put a tube on it, allow the fuel to fill the tube and it should be level with the pip on the float chamber cover beneath the word Amal.

You have no tab on the float to bend (adjust) but Amal sell shims to go under the needle seating.
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Old 30-01-2017, 04:35 AM
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You never got factory recalls on 40's 50's or 60's bikes unlike today ....
Never had a recall on mine...
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Old 30-01-2017, 04:37 AM
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I've checked the fuel level, its a right palaver on the monobloc. You take the cap off the idle jet and put a tube on it, allow the fuel to fill the tube and it should be level with the pip on the float chamber cover beneath the word Amal.

You have no tab on the float to bend (adjust) but Amal sell shims to go under the needle seating.
Maybe a hunt for another more straight forward carb could be in order?
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Old 30-01-2017, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harry View Post
I've checked the fuel level, its a right palaver on the monobloc. You take the cap off the idle jet and put a tube on it, allow the fuel to fill the tube and it should be level with the pip on the float chamber cover beneath the word Amal.

You have no tab on the float to bend (adjust) but Amal sell shims to go under the needle seating.
Sounds like a challenge...
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Old 30-01-2017, 01:01 PM
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I noticed that you have a manual advance/retard lever and if this is set wrong it can cause stalling under load/pinking and overheating if used wrongly. On wartime BSA WM20's they had two different advance/retard systems - Tight wire or slack wire - This means that on one system pulling the lever back (tightening the wire) advances the ignition whereas on the other the lever is pushed forward (slack wire) to advance the ignition. I don't know what system your bike uses so it would be best to check which it is. If it is slack wire, the ignition may be too stiff to advance and thus you (the bike ignition that is) are too retarded ans won't rev and may stall......

See below for optimum starting procedure, not quite the same as turning a key and pressing a button.....





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Old 30-01-2017, 07:32 PM
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Nope the ignition lever works perfectly. Its on the right where it should be on the left, but that's no problem.

Its all academic for now anyway. Having cured or slowed the other oil leaks i find the cylinder base gasket is leaking. 3 of the bolts were loose and the 4th has a stripped thread in the crank case. Hmm.

The head and barrel came off easy as nothing was done up tight (I don't think the bloke who rebuit th engine owns any spanners as nothing is tight.

Here's the final bit The head gasket (copper) was under the barrel and the barrel base gasket yes made of paper was trying to be a head gasket.

There also appears to be play in the big end bearing so this may take some time.

How the poor thing ran at all is a bloody mistery to me.
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Old 31-01-2017, 01:24 PM
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Just hope that you don't have a big end like the BSA's. there are not bolts to take the big end apart, you have to split the crankshaft, which is in two pieces connected by the big end bearing shaft and is a press fit. I still have to do mine and I am not looking forward to it.

The stripped stud in the base can be helicoiled, though unless you have a workshop, it may be best to have it done by a specialist as any error may cause the stud to not line up with the base of the barrel.....
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Old 19-02-2017, 10:26 AM
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Yup it's like the BSA you pull the crank apart as its a roller bearing.

I took the crank, barrel, engine case and new bits to Hamlins in Bridgwater.

They honed the bore while I was there measured it and me new piston and declared it to be fine. The brand new rings fitted by the last owner were standard size in a +60 bore?

They are gonna do the helicoil for less than I can buy a kit.
An they will fit the new big end and make a new small end bush as the clubspares scheme is out of stock.
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Old 19-03-2017, 12:46 PM
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Well the engine rebuild went well (fingers crossed) but not yet run.....because the brand new kickstart return spring broke.

I wouldn't mind but it took me a whole day to get the gearbox cover back on after fitting the new spring, you have to line three things up at once one of which can move as you aim for it, but you can't jiggle it a bit as the other two shafts hold it in place.

I've always said its never the rusty old bits that let you down its the new shiny bits.
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