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Old 06-04-2016, 03:08 AM
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Default Laying up the bike for a year....

I'm going to have to lay the bike up for a year so I'm going to take the opportunity of giving him a good going over. Treat it to new discs and braided hoses, sprockets and chain etc.

Is there any other essential things I need to do in laying up a bike for long periods?
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Old 06-04-2016, 06:41 AM
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Oil and filter change before laying it up
Drain fuel carbs and tank
Get both wheels off the ground or at least onto rubber mats
Battery on tender if you don't have battery tender or power in workshop connect to a car battery then bring that in once a month to charge
Take this opportunity to lube up swing arm bushings and headstock bearings along with a fork oil change

Think that's about it Dai

Edit knew I forget something. Put in new plugs then put old plugs back in leads earth them when you take car battery for charge spin up the motor for ten seconds or so this keeps the oil circulating don't start it that will only cause condensation, if it will spin over with the kill switch set to off connect up HT,leads to new plugs
Don't think I've missed anything
Hope that helps Dai
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Last edited by wiskers; 06-04-2016 at 11:49 AM. Reason: Adding bits
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Old 07-04-2016, 05:46 AM
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Thanks Dai, I hate to do this but I just haven't got the spare cash this year to run it. It will give me the opportunity to give it a bloody good fettling though. Just got to hide spending the dosh on it from the missus somehow!
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Old 07-04-2016, 08:29 AM
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Some people say to put a teaspoon full of engine oil into each cylinder through the spark plug holes, i don't like to do it because of the risk of getting grit or dirt down into the bore
The only time I will put oil into a spark plug hole is if the motor comes up low on a compression test and will have to come apart anyway

Don't think i have missed anything Dai
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Old 07-04-2016, 04:21 PM
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Time gone by I was always against draining fuel systems but these days you just have to.

One it eats things, fuel pipes brass jets etc

and Two it goes stale and then the engine won't start.


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Old 07-04-2016, 04:53 PM
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Harry spot on sir i always used to brim the tank to stop condensation and to keep the cork and fiber washes wet
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Old 08-04-2016, 11:23 AM
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I'm a tank brimmer still but my bikes are never laid up for long, couple of months absolute max before I start to get arsey with everyone and have to have a fix.

I had to replace the amal carbs on my BSA though cos modern ethanol fuels killed the originals. Seems to be ok for now, 2 years since I put them on

Riddle me this though, my knackered old 4 stroke lawn mower which is a much neglected creature starts first pull every spring, with zero maintenance and shitty old petrol ?? Go figure.
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Old 08-04-2016, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
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Riddle me this though, my knackered old 4 stroke lawn mower which is a much neglected creature starts first pull every spring, with zero maintenance and shitty old petrol ?? Go figure.
I'm no expert on things horticultural, but don't lawnmowers and rotorvators, but don't the fuel systems on them work different to cars and bikes? I seem to remember being told that they evaporate the fuel rather than atomising it.
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Old 08-04-2016, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SS2 View Post

Riddle me this though, my knackered old 4 stroke lawn mower which is a much neglected creature starts first pull every spring, with zero maintenance and shitty old petrol ?? Go figure.
Not sure on that but possibly the time the mower is laid up is within the time the modern fuel turns to jelly

My next door neighbour has a cultivator that i drain then run till the carbs empty every year then it has an oil change before being laid up for the winter
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Old 09-04-2016, 10:58 PM
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Pop a couple of those caravan/shed disposable dehumidifiers under the bike. Only cost a quid each on eBay or a hardware store.
Saves condensation and risk of rust.
I've got 6 of them in the garage over winter and the relative humidity stayed at around 35% in there.
Not bad! And cheap!
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Old 11-04-2016, 07:18 AM
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if its a carb bike the fill the tank. but drain the carbs. stops the inside if the tank rusting.

if you will be doing the brakes before it goes back on the road then push the pistons out now. remove caliper from bike. leave one pad between the piston and pump the piston out. makes it easier to strip them later

just my pennys worth
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Old 12-04-2016, 07:21 AM
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Thanks for all the advice. The front brakes will definitely need a service probably replacing the discs and pads. I hope to Upgrade to braided hoses as well. I've noticed that the carb rubbers have splits as well! So I think It will be quite a refurbishment. Seeing as it's the last of the Mk1 Fazers at 100 bhp I'm going to keep the bike as standard as possible, although I've had to replace the downpipes with stainless ones.
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Old 17-04-2016, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Friar Tuck View Post
Thanks for all the advice. The front brakes will definitely need a service probably replacing the discs and pads. I hope to Upgrade to braided hoses as well. I've noticed that the carb rubbers have splits as well! So I think It will be quite a refurbishment. Seeing as it's the last of the Mk1 Fazers at 100 bhp I'm going to keep the bike as standard as possible, although I've had to replace the downpipes with stainless ones.

Ebay is your friend on those parts Friar.
Wemoto isnt too bad for pattern parts.
Or Webike in Japan is my favourite...... $$$$$$$$
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