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  #31  
Old 23-09-2013, 05:35 PM
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Bought some carbon fibre sheet and stainless fixings from Egay. –



Sprayed the rear R1 shock ends metallic silver to match the engine, etc. Bought some offcuts of neoprene rubber off Egay and made a shock cover to tidy up chipped bright yellow spring which I wanted to hide. Gives it a nice neat look I think. –



Cut out the carbon fibre sheet into a new swingarm splashguard, airbrushed on a Harris logo and 2K cleared it. –




The chrome sidestand bracket was rusty so painted that same silver and made some more drilled washers to tie in with rest. –

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  #32  
Old 23-09-2013, 05:36 PM
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Spent several evenings cutting down and reshaping big block of alloy into a polished sidestand, again to tie in with other drilled bits. –



Bottom end angled to sit level-ish on ground. Old bar end weight cleaned up and used as toe lever. –



Splashguard in place with more drilled washers n stuff. –



Love the way it looks. –



Used some more neoprene material and some carbon fibre offcuts as a flexible splashguard to cut down on rear wheel spray to carbs. –



Chain adjusters were bashed to hell with hammer marks, etc to cleaned them up on lathe and polished them up. –

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  #33  
Old 23-09-2013, 05:37 PM
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Liking the way its looking. –



The USD forks I was going to use turned out to be fit for the bin when I was rebuilding them. Were some bad gouges and scrapes in the sliders inside the fork legs. Teflon coated bushes were shot and had chewed up sliders amongst other problems. Just not worth rebuilding at all. Thankfully they were free in the first place.

Got some fireblade forks for it off Egay for £90-odd delivered. Turned up this weekend while I was away at a bike rally on the isle of Skye on the turbo bandit (even won a trophy for it which I was chuffed about). Exact forks I really wanted for it so real happy to get them for a decent price. Always loved the way they look, and good handling units too. In good condition and just need painted/polished lowers before ready to go in yokes that are already on. Test fit this evening to make sure. –



Nice and chunky forks and RWU too which is really what I wanted. Few spacers on lathe and an old wheel spindle I have will fit too. –



Spindle slots into my front wheel so should all go together fine with a bit of lathe work.

After a bit of measuring Im seriously considering a mechanical anti-dive setup like the early AMA and endurance racers. Got `just` enough space I think on front wheel spindle to pull it off. Would work nicely with my endurance style clutch lifter I already made.

Wheels stripped down. My one off discs, etc rusty from sitting in damp shed. They`ll get cleaned up and re-painted next few weeks though along with forks/wheels. –



Wheels need same treatment. Weathered to death and 3mm of paint in several layers. Paint stripper didn’t touch it so Ive ordered up a pile of wire brushes for the drill to get the paint off. Get them painted and polished back up like new. –



So yeah back on the case. Going to be a few weeks of sanding/polishing/painting now so have forks/wheels ready to go on. Concentrating on getting it to a rolling chassis stage basically.
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  #34  
Old 24-09-2013, 10:37 AM
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This is definitely another thread of greatness.
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  #35  
Old 26-09-2013, 05:16 PM
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remember seeing it in streetfighters and when i heard it was getting stripped and rebuilt, i thought it was a bad idea as it was a great bike anyway..... but seeing how fresh and clean looking it is turning out, ill bet your glad you did. looks way better... keep it up and keep on posting the pictures
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  #36  
Old 27-09-2013, 07:46 AM
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remember seeing it in streetfighters and when i heard it was getting stripped and rebuilt, i thought it was a bad idea as it was a great bike anyway..... but seeing how fresh and clean looking it is turning out, ill bet your glad you did. looks way better... keep it up and keep on posting the pictures
Looked fine from a distance bud, but rough close up. On top of that so many niggling bits on it that were forever breaking, or giving problems. Figured this way I work through them all and get it exactly how I want it long term. Had her good 15 years or so and havent changed that much really in all that time. My other bikes have been rebuilt loads of times but this ones remained much the same. Try iron out the last of the flaws this build.
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  #37  
Old 30-09-2013, 08:00 AM
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Busy on my days off yesterday/today replacing turbo bandit`s rear tyre and stripping/rebuilding forks with heavier oil, new seals, and general fettling. Off touring again on it next weekend so need it ready.

Still battling the tidying up of forks and wheels, etc on Harris ready for paint.

Did get a few minutes to balance things in place on the Harris to get an idea of how the belt drive alternator will work. Be a matching belt driven distributer setup other side, as one spinny belt just isnt enough. lol. Got a lot of parts to make from scratch over next few months!







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  #38  
Old 02-10-2013, 06:21 PM
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Still waiting on wire brushes for drill to come in mail so I can clean up wheels. Forks will be painted next week with some work stuff Im prepping, and bolted in place though.

Last couple evenings I made an electrics tray. Scrap of stainless sheet salvaged out of local skip. Lol. –



Few stainless bolts and brackets and job done. Gaps front n back for cables in and out. Might have to drill a few holes for mounting relays n stuff but no biggy. –



Side plates are just frame infils really to hide the electrics from view. Offcuts of the carbon fibre sheet I used on swingarm. Tidies things up a bit and can always drill holes for switches if needs be. –



Simple little part, but one more off the huge `MAKE ME` list. Lol. Need to keep chipping away at the build each evening from now on or its not going to see the road next year. So many parts to make from scratch.

Next pics should be the forks n wheels/discs, etc cleaned up and ready to start piecing together on the lathe.
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  #39  
Old 04-11-2013, 04:53 PM
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Long couple of weeks here with seemingly little to show for it. Must have spent over 30 hours of work getting the wheels, discs and forks into shape. Seems a ridiculous amount of hours, but were in a complete mess, wheras 99% new looking now.

Forks and discs cleaned up and painted. Forks are back in bike now. –



Spent a lot of evenings sitting on doorstep with a screwdriver and butter knife scraping the 2-3mm of old paint layers off the wheels. Wire brushed on drill just didn’t get into much of it really. –



Next problem was countless tyre lever marks and deep scratches on the rims. Another few hours with dremmel and sand paper levelling them out as best as possible. –



Finally got there with em. 2K black and shiny. Sort of hammered finish to them, but that’s the casting so best I can do. Disc adaptors on. –



Back together –



Found some piston valve caps kicking about in the shed on a shelf so threw them on too. Match the piston tacho surround and mastercylinder, etc. –

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  #40  
Old 04-11-2013, 04:54 PM
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Continued....



Next job was trying to get random spindle to fit the blade forks. Turned down the fat end to fit in one side of the forks. –



Found a huge nut and welded it onto the end of the shaft. Arc welders great at getting a lot of heat into things. Filled the nut up with molten weld and then shaped it back to a nice nut shape with the grinder. –



Turned up an alloy spacer for the other fork leg. –



Found a random nut for the threaded end and got a spindle that fits. –



Next thing Im on to is ordering up bearings for the wheels. Planning on making up a mechanical anti-dive setup like the old 80`s endurance/race bikes so need to draw that up and figure out what bronze buses/bearings/track rod ends I need as all come from same supplier as wheel bearings so makes sense to order together and save on postage. Need a couple bits of 12mm alloy plate too. This sort of thing is what im after. –



Got most of the parts and fittings worked out on paper as to whats attaching where, etc. Shouldn’t be too hard, just a lot of fiddly and accurate fabrication really. The one bit that was stumping me was the attachment to the back of the lower yoke. Nothing there at all to bolt to. Did look at steering damper brackets as an alternative, but stupidly expensive! Had a route about the shed and came across the old fork brace off the old 80`s forks I binned. –

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  #41  
Old 04-11-2013, 04:54 PM
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Continued....


Seperating the ends off, and using some silicone offcuts from my turbo bandit build. –



Gives me a nice chunky solid bracket below bottom yoke. Can fabricate a small bracket onto back threaded bolt holes for track rod end to bolt to. –



So next instalment will be a fair few weeks Im afraid by the time I draw everything up and get the bearings/alloy. Got a stack of spacers, etc to make up on lathe and the anti-dive setup to make. Should be nice though and tie in with the endurance style clutch lifter I previously did on the bike.
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  #42  
Old 26-12-2013, 06:27 PM
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Been a while since last updated but have been busy honest. Lol. Boxing day today and sat doing nothing so thought Id update the thread a bit.

After specialised doodles on the back of bits of scrap paper, cereal box templates and some researching I bought some big drillbits, bronze iolite buses and track rod ends, etc off ebay. Also new wheel bearings since its all apart anyway. –




Made a stack of parts out of alloy and stainless, scrapped several of them, and redesigned and remade them again, etc, etc till I was happy with fitment and strength. And came up with this 80`s endurance racer style mechanical anti-dive front end setup. –



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  #43  
Old 26-12-2013, 06:29 PM
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continued........




Skipped over most of the work compared to my usual forum updates Im afraid, but I promised a full detailed article to MDM at www.flat-out.com.

Should be a detailed article appearing on there very soon with all the details on each componant and how it all works, etc. All solid and bolted up tight though at last. Everything bushed for a smooth operation. Calipers stripped, cleaned and repainted along with all the metalwork. Something a bit different anyway and didn’t cost much to do at all. Just a heck of a lot of grinder cutting and hand filing, etc. One of those times you wish you had some fancy tooling.

On my xmas break from work right now so currently battling with the rear end parts so I can get it up on its wheels. Cleaning up rear-sets and brake parts which are in same sorry state as rest of bike was. Years and years of quick weekend modifications to keep the bike on the road, and lots of winters of rust and alloy corrosion, etc.



Unbelievably the calliper pistons are clean and and push back in by finger easily, so still useable.

Also spent out on a new one-off sprocket for the rear wheel in dural alloy. –



And some new back brake pads and a new chain also. –



In the middle of making a new rear calliper mount at the minute, and almost finished the rear-sets which look like new. Few brake parts to paint and fit yet, but not far off. Been cut down and heavily hollowed out internally, and look a lot neater and lighter than before. –



Hopefully get rear wheel/brake setup, etc in place and bike rolling in the next week or so before I go back to work. Only so much xmas tv I can stand……

On a xmas note I got my wife another dog for xmas. This ones quiet and doesn’t eat much tho. Lol. A friend on the Isle OF Skye made it for me cheap using a bike crankshaft, conrods, pistons, clutch basket and some odd`s n sod`s. Pretty cool. Definitely a male dog judging by the size of its nuts! lol –

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  #44  
Old 27-12-2013, 11:51 AM
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seriously impressed fella super nice work can't wait to see it finished
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  #45  
Old 27-12-2013, 04:25 PM
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seriously impressed fella super nice work can't wait to see it finished
Cheers. Best I can do with what Ive got anyway. lol. Hopefully turn out alright in the end.
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  #46  
Old 30-12-2013, 07:53 PM
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Bit more done. Back caliper stripped/painted and new pads. Made up a caliper hanger out of the old one cut down severely too. –



After concearns about strength of upper anti-dive mounts I changed the layout by drilling and tapping right through main body of clamp instead. Stronger and looks neater too. –



Last few parts made for the rearsets and bolted onto bike. –



Used a scrap piece off carbon for a little heelguard for other side too. Bit neater with m/c tucked behind rearset this time. –



Wheel on at last. Did my shoulder in a bit trying to hold back end up with one arm while lining up eccentric adjusters and spacers, etc with other arm. Worth it though to see it back on 2 wheels. Fitted new chain after this photo too. –



The `jump on the table and clamber onto bike before camera timer runs out` shot. Lol –



Good to sit on the bike again after so long.

Need to make a new brake torque arm for it. Need another brake banjo for rear line and bleed both F&R brakes too. Few odds n sods to fettle/adjust tomorrow but rolling chassis more or less complete anyway.
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  #47  
Old 02-01-2014, 06:00 PM
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Another chunk done. Fitted chain and was fouling clutch setup slightly. Spaced it out with couple washers and fine. Also made up a small stainless clamp on protector plate for the frame under lower chain run. `Just` touches frame and no more with no rider weight on the seat, etc. Clears fine once sat on the bike but for all the effort it took to make it saves it rubbing slightly over crests, etc. –



New back brake torque arm made up as original was too short with new minimal calliper mount. Big n chunky alloy but not that heavy once drilled to death. Drilled washers, etc again too to tie in with rest. –



Had front end apart yet again to remove some niggles and doubts. Cut down excess width of alloy clamps on fork legs to give more fork slider potential movement. Good 3” now plus the 2” or so of static sag that’s already loaded on them. Plenty movement now. I also put a threaded bar across between the 2 alloy clamps to make sure they cant turn around the fork legs and go out of line with the anti-dive force pushing on them under heavy braking. Everythings solid now up front so leaving it alone at last. Lol. -



Cleaned up exhaust. Took sodding hours n hours of sanding and polishing to get the years of winter riding smeg and rust off. All stainless Predator system with modified minimal race baffle and alloy big bore endcap, etc. Good 10 years old so good few stone marks on downtubes, but nothing you can notice when heads 6” away from them so all good. –




Ordered up exhaust gaskets, new clutch cable and back brake banjo/bolt/light switch too along with a mountain of stainless bolts/nuts/washers, etc.

Moving quick at moment but have to go back to work in a few days after my xmas/new year break so will slow a bit. Good to get so much done though while got the time spare.
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  #48  
Old 20-01-2014, 04:43 PM
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Reloaded pics so hopefully displays properly this time.

Another few bits done. Home life`s been a bit crazy of late and back at work after xmas break so slow going. Keeping me sane-ish though getting bit done on it here and there where I can.

Made up a big chunky billet alloy bolt on subframe to support the rear seat. Old setup was weak and seat plastics flexed a lot 2-up which caused a lot of stress cracks in fibreglass. Wanted something solid this time so came up with this. –




Not on view with seat fitted so didn’t bother polishing it up or anything. Solid as a rock though and no seat unit flex at all. Not too heavy with all the holes drilled neither.

Made up a stainless undertray for the seat unit out of some old shop shelves I scavenged a while back from a local shop refit (free). Bit of bending round a lamp post outside garage door and some sanding/polishing later and fits a treat. LED`s fitted running through one way diode and resistor setup to dim for light and full wattage for brake light. Just waiting on 3 more in mail to finish off. –



Few stainless brackets and job done. –




Made up a passenger footrest assembly. Not going to be used in 2-up form often so made it removable for neater look. My turbo bandits my 2-up daily hack anyway. 2 bolts attaches it quickly to underneath of billet subframe. Recessed to give maximum wheel clearance loaded up. Undertray has curved section just in case too. –

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  #49  
Old 20-01-2014, 04:44 PM
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continued....




Wanted to keep undertray clean and neat so went for side mount numberplate again. High enough up not to ground out I reckon. Waiting on a LED light for it. –




Has a twist though. Liked the flip down numberplate with spec panel I made for turbo bandit and decided to evolve the idea a bit. Keeps bike tidy when parked up too. Need to make up a spec panel to stick on. –



Not sure what to work on next. Ideally it would have been the supporting framework for the front fairing/headlights/battery tray but don’t have spare £100 or so for fairing right now to work from. Will have to wait a few weeks.

Might start planning and cutting parts for the belt driven alternator setup. Going for this position now with it as much neater and more compact. Belt driven magneto in same position other side. Billet alloy or carbon fibre belt guards, etc. –



Overall Im aiming for this kind of look. Colour/paint to be decided on, but gives a rough idea of what Im after. –

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  #50  
Old 20-01-2014, 08:37 PM
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ehhhh where'd you photies go?
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  #51  
Old 21-01-2014, 08:46 AM
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ehhhh where'd you photies go?
Reloaded pics so should be fine now...........unless my fat fingers have guffed up again.
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Old 21-01-2014, 08:37 PM
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perfect and looking good
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  #53  
Old 21-01-2014, 11:09 PM
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All very good Harris but I think you should pay more attention to detail !!
Good work mate, keep it up
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  #54  
Old 22-01-2014, 09:16 AM
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All very good Harris but I think you should pay more attention to detail !!
Good work mate, keep it up
Not going overboard bud, as still has to be usable end of the day. Saying that Im getting pretty anal about bits on it as know its not going to be my daily ride as such so will only see decent weather from now on. Got my VW trike for hauling family/shopping about on and my turbo bandit for daily riding and touring, etc in all weathers.

Be nice to keep this as my good weather bike for first time ever and really enjoy it as such. Was in a right state before I started rebuilding it as had been my daily commuter for countless years through a lot of winters and just kept on the road.
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Old 05-03-2014, 05:34 AM
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Been a few weeks since updated. Don’t have a heck of a lot to show for it tbh. :/ Been busy with house renovations fitting double glazed windows, woodwork, plastering and all that fun stuff.

Put in a good few hours late at night and stuff in the garage making parts though where I could. Real slow going cutting bits out with the grinder then countless hours hand filing and sanding to shape, etc. At least its moving forwards though.

Made up this alloy light bracket out of some bar and the old rear brake torque arm. Battery box is parts of an old greenhouse. Lol. Battery will sit just behind front of fairing giving me a real neat short cable run to electrics tray under tank. Can’t cut brackets or mount it till have fairing to get sizes/position from, but one less part to make down the line. –





Most of my time has been spent making the belt driven alternator setup. REALLY under estimated how hard this was going to be with my tools or lack of.

Started off with an old pulley wheel I wasn’t using. –



With the casing off the magneto inner section sits on a tapered and keyed shaft on end of crank held on by central but. I say held on, but it tool a bearing puller to even loosen it! –



An old scrap random wheel spindle threaded into body to act as output shaft. –

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Old 05-03-2014, 05:34 AM
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Continued......


I turned the pulley wheel down into a bearing and seal carrier. –



Ground the inner castings down inside the casing and `JUST` squeezed the carrier inside the casing. Was going to get it welded on but managed to make it a bolt together assembly using a 2mm nitrile rubber gasket I cut out which clamps between the parts. –



This protrudes through the casing with a recess for an oil seal. –



Theres a 1mm spacer between the support bearing inner race and the old alternator inner section so it can’t work its way off the crank. Would have like to get rid of that 0.5 kg inner section but my tooling/skills on lathe weren’t up to it with the tapered/keyway section, etc. Couldn’t cut casing thinner in width anyway like most people do as exhaust headers sweep hard left at front and alternator only clears headers by 4mm or so as it is. Not worried about ground clearance though as the engines are really high in the frame on these Harris’s compared to the old Z’s. I’m no Marquez getting 50-60 degree lean angles and got clearance for that sort of thing leant over.

Bought a huge slab of 10mm alloy plate from my local fishing boat builders for £20 which I thought was alright. Was considered an offcut for them the scale they work at. Lol -



Cut out support plate with a grinder and roughed it to shape. –



I’ll not bore you with the rest, but needless to say I spent weeks cutting/drilling/sanding/polishing/painting the parts and making umpteen spacers on the lathe so parts would mount and line up, etc. Alternator was a tapered shaft too but managed to weld some nuts to the original gear backplate to bolt the pulley wheel to. Taken a huge amount of hours to make a small part by hand, but think it turned out alright. Best I can do anyway. –

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Old 05-03-2014, 05:35 AM
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Continued.....




Just needs some carbon fibre sheet ordered up to make a skeletal guard for the front. Something like this with pulley wheels on view. -



Bolted on. –




Got all the shaft parts/bearings, etc gathered together for the belt driven magneto on the other side of crank so I’ll be starting on that next. A lot easier setup though so should be quicker to do as no oil inside that casing or anything and got it all worked out on paper as to how I’m doing it.

My turbo bandits been off the road for a couple of months over winter due to constant petrol tank leaks and rust debris in carbs, etc. Looks fine on outside but rotten inside and leaking seams, etc. Got sick of riding along paranoid about the drips of fuel hitting something hot so parked it up till sorted it properly. Bought a rough looking tank off ebay. Few dents but inside is like new, even with coating, etc. Spotless inside which is main thing. –



Yantosh made me this fuel outlet and return up for it. –



Getting it Tig’d onto the tank today by fishing boat builders up town. I’ll need to find time to get it fillered/painted up so Harris might have to take a back seat for a couple of weeks of evenings while do that. REALLY want back on the road now weathers starting to improve.
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Old 12-05-2014, 05:31 PM
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Well been another few weeks of battling with bike and house refurbishing. Got my replacement turbo bandit tank done and out of the way. Been out and about on it at every opportunity since tbh. Racking up a lot of miles and a lot of tanks of petrol. –





Back to the Harris anyway. Ended up re-making parts several times over to get it all fitting together right. Bit of a nightmare getting it all to fit in space available. Started by stripping off and painting pickup/points casing black. –



Made a pulley/shaft coupling for the crank using the original casing and a turned bearing housing. Shaft was made out of a long reach socket which engages on the end of the crankshaft nut whish is dowel-pinned to the crank so solid. –


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Old 12-05-2014, 05:32 PM
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Continued....

Used a stainless steel tea/coffee/sugar jar for the magneto type housing for the dynacoils. Drilled a few holes, etc. –



Turned up a carrier to house 2x bearings. Shaft was made out of a section of an old wheel spindle. Fan was made out of some stainless scrap sheet. –




Air is drawn in one end and blown out the other to keep the coils cool. –



Dyna coils bolt to end cap. –



A week or so of fettling and shaping with a file and losing my fingerprints sanding/polishing. Etc and job done. Carbon fibre guard to finish it off. –

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Old 12-05-2014, 05:33 PM
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continued....





Bolted back on. –




Carbon guard made up for other side to finish that off too.



Where I’m up to. –

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