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Old 30-04-2011, 03:08 AM
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Default Pup-Project: Photo-Resto; '86 Honda CB125TD-C (Pic Heavy!)Nearly Finished

Well I started this project in June 2010 it`s not quite finished yet but he`s getting there Meet the Pup a 1986 Honda CB125 super Dream





Click the Picture to watch video of the first start up after a full rebuild....ok so we came across a few niggles on the start up lol

Just the Tank to be painted now as the tank his wearing now is from one of the other bikes we have and then to get it MOTed and Taxed

He started off like this in may 2010



Next Post will be how it all began
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Old 30-04-2011, 08:58 AM
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OK, I can put together a flat-pack wardrobe from IKEA, so making a motorbike out of THIS lot can't be TOO hard can it?!

Alright, so HOW did I get into this mess? Well had my bike stolen nearly 5 weeks ago

It was a Horrible Chinese cruiser thing. An AJS-Regal Raptor DD125E, to be precice. And I hated it. But My B/F had convinced me to keep it long enough to get my training & test. and made a few adaptations, like fitting lower bar-risers and narrower bars, and i was JUST starting to think it was ALMOST alright, and had even polished it, when it got nicked. And it hadn't been found so had to look for another 125 so that i could do my rider training,before going on my test.

Well my bf was helping me, and he`s got a cb750 called 'Black Dawg', and I wanted a 'Project' so I thought "I know I'll go for the cb125, and call it the 'pup'"

So we hunted ebay for cb125 and ended up winning one, in the end for 310. Well it looked a little scruffy with the paint work the old owner did on it but that was an easy fix...

we went to collect. b/f checked it over and he said that it was a cb125t with cb125tdc body work,as it had twin shocks.... But all was reveiled when we got it home.

As I was after learning mechanics, what ever bike I was going to end up with, was going to be rebuilt. Completely, 'no expense spared', Ha-Ha! B/F's started wincing at the price for having forks re-chromed and having new locks and exhausts!

Bill, excluding THIS heap, has just topped 1300, and we haven't looked at the engine yet! (see website for costs to date)
YES! It WOULD, have been cheaper to go buy a three year old CBR125..... BUT I guess I wouldn't have learned so much, and by the time we're finished, I SHOULD have pretty much a brand-new bike..... well, once the B/F has been convinced to get them shiney bits for me! He-He!

'The Heap' as it I now call it, as thats what it is, the heap in the pic at the top! As it arived on our drive.
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Old 30-04-2011, 08:59 AM
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Anyway I got started stripping it the very next day.


Now, that BAD paint-Job started with LOTS of BAD filler!


Battery Box 'Botched' with a bit of tin-plate.

Broken Clutch Cable, 'fixed' with.... well YOUR guess is as good as ANY-ONES!

ONLY the b/f noticed that it wasnt the cb125t but the cb125tdc had the mono shock linkage and part of the frame removed,and twin shocks drilled into the frame and swingarm.....i wasnt pleased.......

Frame after being stripped, the twin-shock mounts bolts through holes drilled in the seat rail of the frame and the end-plate of the swing-arm! B/F's an engineer, and HE missed that the way it had been hid!
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Old 30-04-2011, 09:00 AM
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Frame from another bike, notice the horezontal rail between the engine loops with the bracket on for the shock-absorber. It was completely MISSING from this frame!
So we 'scrapped' it. Time to do something different.
(See the Full Story @ http://snowtigeress.webfreehosting.n...39;s Blog-Spot
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Old 30-04-2011, 09:01 AM
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So off hunting again................ won another cb125 that was in too good a conditon to strip and make project pup...



It had a dead engine, but otherwise was in wonderful original condition.... So the B/F claimed it as 'HIS' project, and has muttered about head-gaskets, wrapped it in a Duvet Cover, and suggested it might make a 'useful' little bike for following Newbies on IF he ever goes back Instructing again.... I suspect he'll sell it though. He found two more, before we were done, and he keeps pointing to bits of the REALLY ratty one that came as the 'Donor' and saying exitedly "Number FIVE-EEZ-ALIVE!"

But, at LEAST it gives us something to look at to see how stuff SHOULD be, this time!

So then we found and won project pup..... for grand sum of 410, but when we got there, chap knocked 50 off the win-price, as soon as my B/F mentioned the head race bearings were clonking!









B/f JUST managed to grab a few pics of it when we first got it home, but had FOOLISHLY bought me my own socket set......

Last edited by Snowtigeress; 30-04-2011 at 09:05 AM.
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Old 30-04-2011, 09:06 AM
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Old 30-04-2011, 09:06 AM
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"Ok i had a little help from Tef as the screws had been rouneded off"








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Old 30-04-2011, 09:08 AM
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Tef told me to stuff the engine,he actually meant to put rags down the holes to stop dirty and water getting in



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Old 30-04-2011, 09:09 AM
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not bad for a girly,dont you think?
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Old 30-04-2011, 09:10 AM
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One demolished Honda Super-Dream! all in a days work, for an ardent Biker-Chick, hugh!

So, day two..... it looked like this:-



Time to strip the Suspension Linkage & remove all the old bushes, so the frame could be sent for Sand-Blasting, after having a go at it with a wire brush on the drill!









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Old 30-04-2011, 09:11 AM
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And THEN having a go at rust removal by Electrolysis, inspired by a blog of another CB125 Restoration where he did it to a horn. I had slightly bigger ideas.... I tried doing the whole frame!


Tackling a tank.




The Heap`s Tank

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Old 30-04-2011, 09:13 AM
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Frame has gone for blasting. But a big bag of bits has turned up from Dave Silver Spares. More parcels from other people off e-bay.
So, while I wait for the frame to come back, time to have a crack at reconditioning the brakes.

Pulling out the old pistons with a pair of mole grips. This kills them.

But I had brand new ones to replace them with.


Seals removed 'Carefuly' by b/f with 'Something-Pointy' (See I'm getting to grips with the technical terminology of mechanics!)

I HATE washing up! Thought this mechanics lark would be like playing mechano, but b/f has me at the kitchen sink CLEANING stuff, more than I'm am twiddling spanners!
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Old 30-04-2011, 09:16 AM
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Pointy Things, Tooth-Brushes, drill bits; b/f kept sending me back to scrape & scrub and make these brake bits METICULOUSELY clean. He said that any 'crud' left in the internals of the brake bits could block the ports and valves and stuff and stop the brake working, so I guess he has a point about this cleaning m'larky!

So If I have to be chained to the kitchen sink, I'll get HIM doing drilling!
Actually, THIS was the reason that this brake didn't work. Screw wouldn't come out of the brake fluid filler, so it had never been filled! B/F VERY CAREFULLY drilled it out.

So carefully that he was left with just the rim of the head on the drill bit, and most of the shaft of the screw still in the hole. GOD he's GOOD..... or so HE says anyway!

Cap lifed off the stubb of screw, the end could be gripped with the trusty mole-grips. B/F bought this pair at Machine Mart when he got me my socket set. They were expensive. I over-looked that fact, because he was buying me toys.... sorry, TOOLS... and he has been raving about how fantastic they are ever since! Have to admit though, they DID do the trick here!

HA! Got HIM with his hands in soapy water! All that stale pee coloured stuff is aparently solidified brake fluid. It ALL had to be scraped and scrubbed out.
THEN the master cylinder piston and seals can be removed. Dont ask. I watched. and I STILL dont understand it. Well I do. Its all held in with a little clip. a RUSTY little clip. Burried a long way down a hole. And it takes MUCH swearing, trying every single pair of funny pliers in the b/f's big tool box, and eventually comes out with the patented 'pointy-thing'!
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Old 30-04-2011, 09:16 AM
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After putting the blunt end of a drill in the port in the filler reservoir to hold the piston back.

DONT pull the drill out though, unless you have your thumb over the cylinder to stop the piston flying out..... as shown!

anyway, THATS whats inside the master cylinder, the old bits above, the nice new ones below.

But before they can go in, its BACK to the kitchen sink.... a-gain!

But once thoroughly cleaned and dried in an oven to make sure there is no crud and no water of ANYTHING left in the castings.... castings.... see I'm really getting the lingo here, they'd've bin 'bits' to me last week!
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Old 30-04-2011, 09:19 AM
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They can be masked up for painting, so they look good as well as work good.

all the holes and stuff where bits move or bolt have to be covered up so paint dont get in there and gumm up the workings.




Thats the Caliper masked. The Master Cylinder was done the same way.

The Caliper was painted in matt heat-proof paint, becouse they can get hot, aparently, and it was cured after spraying in the oven. But SOME-ONE forgot to take 'photo's, as they were too busy messing with another motorbike!
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Old 30-04-2011, 09:19 AM
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Once painted and cured, masking removed, and the casting YE A BLUDY GAIN, washed and thoroughly dried, (To make sure theres no dust or paint residues or ANYTHING inside... its time to try and put it to gether again.

Main seals go in first, in the lower groove. They are the thicker ones, and are square in section. Takes a bit of 'wiggling' but they do go in. I have an advantage here with little lady's fingers! Tip, wipe them with brake fluid first to lubricate them.

'Wiper' seals go in next, in the upper groove. These are the thinner rings and have a groove in the face. BOTH rings have to go in neatly without being twisted or kinked or anything.

Once the seals are in place and seated comfortably, then the pistons can be pushed in. Again they go in a lot easier if you dip the end in brake fluid to lube them first. You DO have to be careful to get them in square and not dislonge a seal as you push them in though. Case of being firm but fair! They will take a bit of pressure to go in, you cant tickle them, but get ham-fisted and you'll get them jammed and possibly pinch one of the new seals.



But once they are 'in' they should go all the way fairly easily.
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Old 30-04-2011, 09:20 AM
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Next the brake pads anti-rattle clip can be fitted.Given some coppa-slip to stop it squeeking ir rusting, and after coppa-slipping tha back of the brake pads they can be fitted too.



Next come the pad-pins, which can again be coppa-slipped before pushing through the pads. These often rust in the holes in the caliper and the pads stopping the brake work properly & making changing the pads a pain. A we were reconditioning the caliper we used brand new pad pins, & my B/F had me 'ream' the holes for them in the caliper out with a drill before we started re-assembling it.

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Old 30-04-2011, 09:21 AM
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Next job is to re-assemble the float-pins. Note that the pads have been wedged part with a bit of card-board to stop them waggl;ing about until the caliper if fitted, and the hole for the brake pipe mashed off to stop crud getting in before its all put fully back together.


The float pins are a pain. B/F said there was a 'trick' to it, and then cocked it up! Theres two rubber grommits and a sleeve. Sleeve goes through the caliper body, rubber grommet goes on either end, clipping into a groove on the end of the sleeve, and another in the caliper body!
The 'Trick' I think he eventually discovered is you put ONE gromet into the caliper body, then push the sleeve through from the other side, and push it FURTHER than the gromet, so you have an empty hole to put the other grommet into. THEN you can push the sleeve back and fiddle the grommets into the grooves on either end of the sleeve.
Its not easy. Especially if everything is all slippery with coppa-slip, because you dont want it rusting or siezing!

Gromet on the OTHER pin just clips over the lip of the hole on the caliper mount. Dead easy, BUT as B/F pointed out, DONT use TOO much coppa-slip of it'll all squrt out when you push the pin in, and or stop the pin floating properly.
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Old 30-04-2011, 09:22 AM
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In fact, you ought to be sparing with the coppa-slip in MOST places, as you dont want any getting on the brake pads or anything!
Finally, and I didn't get pictures of it, a new bleed nipple and nipple cover can be fitted, and the pad retaining plate screwed down over the pad-pins to hold them in place.
And EVERYTHING tightened up to the torque specifications in the Haynes manual.

OH.... Tip: WHEN you paint the caliper body, if you want it to look REALLY nice when its all 'done'...... dont forget to paint the pad retaining plate!
Might get round to doing the Master Cylinder next, but first, more painting.

oh and i finally managed to strip my own tank back to metal..and its just had its first coat of primer



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Old 30-04-2011, 09:23 AM
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Before the cruiser was stolen I was hoping to sell it,so that I could buy a Kawasaki KH 125 that had a custom paint job.



But it wasnt to be as the bids got higher and higher on it.

So I asked Tef if i could have a custom paint job of a wolf cub on my tank....


ok fella`s as the bikes called the pup i would like a wolf pup done on the tank,
which 1 of these piccys would you think suit??







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Old 30-04-2011, 09:25 AM
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Old 30-04-2011, 09:25 AM
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Then striped and cleaned 2 sets of forks, to find the best of the stanchions and sleeves,cleaned the sleeves with a wire wheel on the drill only managed to clean 1 set of them though as killed the drill ops:

Undo the top bolt on the fork leg before you take it off the yoke`s then undo the yoke pinch bolts to release fork legs,and remove the fok spring,sorry Tef wasnt fast enough to get a piccy,see the top bolt is loose in this pic

Empty the fork oil into a jar as it can be used for cleaning with a bit of petrol in it,pumping the stanchion to get out as must oil as possible ,Now turn the fork leg upside down and remove the allen bolt use a bar in the in the wheel spindle lug,and then another bar on the allen key for more leaverage

Remove the stanchion from the slider,turn the stanchion upside down as now the allen bolts out of the damper rod should just tip out

If you fish the allen bolt out of the bottom of the slider so you dont loose it, you can screw it back in the damper rod end cap,to pull it out
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Old 30-04-2011, 09:26 AM
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Uni-thread rod (M8 in this case! )is really useful to have.here used to push damper rod out the stanchion


Remove the dust seal on the slider with a tyre iron or screw driver

Use the screw driver to take out the circlip that was under the dust cover in the slider

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Old 30-04-2011, 09:27 AM
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Use the tyre iron to remove the fork seal turn it and lever round till it comes loose,as you dont want to damage the slider




look lots of lovely pieces,these all need to be cleaned
Except first i took the slider to tef so he could drill the sheared bolt out of the stantion from where the mudguard is bolted...

Centre punching a hole so the drill bit doesnt move off course
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Old 30-04-2011, 09:28 AM
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I had already cleaned this set of sliders,with my trusty drill and brush,and masked off the drain hole and top of the slider so when they are painted the paint doesnt go into them



With a small drill bit slowly pilot a hole through the bolt and the repeat with a slightly bigger drill bit

Hes good managed to leave some of the bolt so that it dont damage the thread
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Old 30-04-2011, 09:29 AM
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With a pair of long nose pliers he scraped out the remaining bolt

Then just used a tap to clean the threads up


One nice and shiny hole,oh and look it can still be used

Murdered drill R.I.P
So then i had a go at sanding the bodywork down,by hand,any1 know an easier way as been told paintstripper eats at the plastic?

My sliders had their first coat of primer ,dont they look nice
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Old 30-04-2011, 09:30 AM
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OH and this morning a few parcles turned up Hmmmmmm goodies....................shineyyyyyyyyyyyyy,mine eeeeeeeeeeeeee Tef get your mits off my new shiney bits


My new X-Ring chain and spocket set


Goodridge brake hose
and a load more bits in the box,back brake shoes, head race bearings,an alarm,etc

Shiney new engine bars
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Old 30-04-2011, 09:32 AM
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A new shock


The answer was NO to the custom tank

but he started having a play with graphics

What you think of this??



Thinking of what to do with the speedo now
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Old 30-04-2011, 09:34 AM
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i was back in the kitchen sink washing every single bracket sanding them down and washing as much rust as possible Tef has now told me that not everything has to be back to white metal................. Wish he`d make his bloody mind up :P

i got my frame and swingarm back yipppeeeeeeeeeeeee,Oh and they dont look like cheese,thats what happened to someone else on another forum

heres some piccys of when the frame came back






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Old 30-04-2011, 09:35 AM
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im so happy its back might be able to start something instead of washing-sanding-washing........

so it didnt get rusty again by morning i got Tef to put on a coat of primer onto it



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