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  #1  
Old 23-08-2006, 03:15 PM
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Default Top tips

Hows a bout a thread with a few tips on.

Heres one.
If yer fork seals have just started leaking, lift the dust seal and clean out the top of the seal, then pack it with grease, pump them a few times and wipe off the excess, should get a few hundred miles before you need to change them. (Worked 5 times now)
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Old 23-08-2006, 04:11 PM
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Or use the method a mate employs on his superdream which is to drain out all the oil therefore leaving no telltale oil on the forkleg for those awkward MOT/police inspection moments
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Old 23-08-2006, 04:16 PM
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Fit fork-gaiters secured with jubilee clips.....
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Old 23-08-2006, 04:34 PM
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8 X AA batteries taped together is enough to excite the coils and allow bump / kick starting a bike with flat battery.
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Old 23-08-2006, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hermann
Or use the method a mate employs on his superdream which is to drain out all the oil therefore leaving no telltale oil on the forkleg for those awkward MOT/police inspection moments
Until the first bumpy bend...oh hang on, a wet dream, that all right then.
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Old 23-08-2006, 05:11 PM
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Furniture polish is great for getting spattered chain lube of everything, including the rear wheel.
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Old 23-08-2006, 11:16 PM
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to stop fork seals leaking for the mot take out the dust seal and pack under neath with kitchen roll and pop back down it wipes the oil off every time it moves
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Old 23-08-2006, 11:46 PM
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if riding a bike for the winter that has polished rims, or chrome etc spoked wheels with nice rims, I liberally spray them with a spray on car polish, and wipe vaseline or similar round the rim, all salt and road grime, chain lube etc cant get to the metal, spray on a cleaner and jet wash off everynow and then, then reapply

I have used some real nice classic bikes for commuting and winterwork and not so much as a speck of rust using this method
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Old 24-08-2006, 08:50 AM
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Every few months drain your carb float bowls, you'll be surprised at the crap that comes out (or use a filter)
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Old 24-08-2006, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devon-tony
if riding a bike for the winter that has polished rims, or chrome etc spoked wheels with nice rims, I liberally spray them with a spray on car polish, and wipe vaseline or similar round the rim, all salt and road grime, chain lube etc cant get to the metal, spray on a cleaner and jet wash off everynow and then, then reapply

I have used some real nice classic bikes for commuting and winterwork and not so much as a speck of rust using this method
The rust adds to the character of my bike... without rust she would be nothing!
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Old 24-08-2006, 10:20 AM
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Wipe over matt black finishes with some WD40 on a rag and they come up like new!

This also works to remove turtle wax from plastic arches on golf gtis. Apparently.
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Old 24-08-2006, 11:04 AM
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Want your black engine to stay looking smart? Use dashboard shine stuff from cars, you an get it in matt and satin and it brings the engine casings up great.
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Old 24-08-2006, 11:05 AM
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when you fit an exhaust that uses split loose collets, hold them in place using black electrical tape so you dont have to juggle the parts or invite 4 mates around to help. The tape just goes hard and brittle, it doesnt smoke or drip or mark the pipes.

Also, use brass nuts on the exhaust studs, they wont seize in place, and if you are heavy handed doing them up the nut threads will strip before you damage the stud, so you can have another go and do it properly
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Old 24-08-2006, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pyro
8 X AA batteries taped together is enough to excite the coils and allow bump / kick starting a bike with flat battery.
Or jumper leads.
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Old 24-08-2006, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Hopkins
Or jumper leads.
No use if you've got nothing to attach the other end to......
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Old 24-08-2006, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dougie
No use if you've got nothing to attach the other end to......
Except 8 aa batteries....
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Old 24-08-2006, 12:31 PM
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If any of us could ever afford a new motybike then add a capfull of two stroke oil to the tank at each fill up, (unless it has a cat), this ensures there is a film of lube in the new cylinders and in the valves, it also coats the inside of the exhaust.
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Old 24-08-2006, 12:47 PM
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Lightbulb Couple of things I do.....

Ever been spanked by a chain on the moores (yorkshire)?I have and it bl**dy hurts when your chain lets go.Had a spare link on keyring(coutesy of one of hackes in custom rag for idea).Bit of pratting around with pliares and onwards-side saddle

Other thing on keyring is a mini mag light,can't fix stuff if can't see it.

Most of bolts are s/steel caps on bike so couple of hex keys and can get to most stuff.Pliares and two phillips screwdrivers under seat.Few zip clips taped to seat rails can be handy.

Pocket time-roll of wire,couple of in line connectors,insulation tape wrapped around wire.Few fuses don't take up much room .

Punctures can be a thing of the past if you fill your tyres with goop(OK I can't remember the name) it fills puncture oncontact with air-clever stuff.

Admitadly my bikes tend to be on the survival/rat end of spectrum but with this lot and regular servicing had a good run of luck!

cheers,

Drew

Last edited by trikerdrew; 24-08-2006 at 12:49 PM. Reason: plyres,pliars---who cares????????????
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Old 24-08-2006, 04:22 PM
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Default rust

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kylie
The rust adds to the character of my bike... without rust she would be nothing!
Yeah mine too...or are we just cheap. John
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Old 25-08-2006, 06:26 PM
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every time i'v had a fork seal go it's been from rust spots on the staunchan. rub back with 1500-2000 grit paper and fill any hole with supper glue before you fitt new seals (anly about 6.00).

but my biggest tip for any one is... give your bike a propper shake down before going touring. i'v had a trip where i broke down 27 times on the way out. 3 on way back. and thats still my faveret bike i'v ever had.
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Old 25-08-2006, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozzybiker
every time i'v had a fork seal go it's been from rust spots on the staunchan. rub back with 1500-2000 grit paper and fill any hole with supper glue before you fitt new seals (anly about 6.00).
I found that covering the legs with grease and fitting fork gaiters works as well.......
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Old 26-08-2006, 01:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dougie
I found that covering the legs with grease and fitting fork gaiters works as well.......
Doesn't it run into your socks? John
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  #23  
Old 26-08-2006, 03:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreatBritishRob
Furniture polish is great for getting spattered chain lube of everything, including the rear wheel.
been using furniture polish for 14 years. makes the bike sparkle and smell nice and gives a bit of protection after.
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Old 26-08-2006, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Hopkins
Doesn't it run into your socks? John
The FORK LEGS you great leek eating pillock!
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Old 26-08-2006, 12:50 PM
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Anyway.....
When refitting brake banjos, put a coating of loctite on each side of the copper washer.
I use the clear green bearing retainer stuff, for everything, the powdery looking blue stuff's wank.
Once nipped up, it seals it perfectly, saves all that ooze of fluid out the banjo hassle, and means you dont have to skork it up with a fork leg on the spanner till your brake lines are at all angles, or the threads strip.
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Old 27-08-2006, 08:08 PM
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Default Fork legs!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dougie
The FORK LEGS you great leek eating pillock!
Oops sorry, got it wrong again... John
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  #27  
Old 27-08-2006, 10:46 PM
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lightly grease both sides of the paper gasket (coke box etc) before installing - that way it falls off when the cover is removed next time - no more scraping etc.

fit a chain oiler - a free one:-
www.atct.co.uk/guyoiler.doc

buy a nut splitter - best tool ever!
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  #28  
Old 28-08-2006, 12:00 AM
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a nut splitter??? sounds painful
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  #29  
Old 28-08-2006, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taff
Anyway.....
When refitting brake banjos, put a coating of loctite on each side of the copper washer.
I use the clear green bearing retainer stuff, for everything, the powdery looking blue stuff's wank.
Once nipped up, it seals it perfectly, saves all that ooze of fluid out the banjo hassle, and means you dont have to skork it up with a fork leg on the spanner till your brake lines are at all angles, or the threads strip.

Better still, remove the copper washers and sling them over the nearest hedge. Replace them with 1/8" BSP Doughty washers (which you can get from hydraulics places amongst others. The banjo bolts usually only need a 1/4 turn after they have been run up to get a perfect seal.

If you insist on using copper washers, heat them up red hot in the flame of a gas cooker or torch and let them cool down in the air before you fit them. This anneals them and means they are softer and less likely to need as much torque to seal.
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  #30  
Old 28-08-2006, 05:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Pete
If you insist on using copper washers, heat them up red hot in the flame of a gas cooker or torch and let them cool down in the air before you fit them. This anneals them and means they are softer and less likely to need as much torque to seal.
I was told to anneal them by heating them up red hot and then quenching them in cold water.... this cracks off all the oxide and fixes the washers in their expanded state. Many years since I've done this chore (on my old GS850GN I think) but I remember that it worked fine, no leaks.
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