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  #1  
Old 23-08-2017, 08:24 AM
bungy bungy is offline
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Default XJ900 F Fuses Problem

I'm after a bit of help with my wiring on my trike.


Long story short, I've had to replace and rewire large portions of my wiring loom, which I've pretty well managed to work out, but as the fuse box was missing I have no idea or reference as to which size fuses go where.


Does anyone have a picture of an XJ900 fuse box with the fuses in, or can someone tell me which fuses go where in the fuse box?

Thanks

Steve
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Old 23-08-2017, 12:52 PM
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If you can list the number and wattage rating of your lamps, horn etc and the layout of the fuse box we can tell you what fuses to put in.

Fairly easy to work out, just a bit of maths. Ohms law...

for example a 20 watt bulb

20/12=1.66 amps.

55 watt bulb:

55/12=4.16 amps.
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Old 23-08-2017, 01:29 PM
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Thanks Strima, That all sounds relatively straightforward if I can find out the wattage of everything.
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Old 23-08-2017, 03:08 PM
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It'll be written on the bulbs.

Work 10 amps for the horn.

10 - 15 for the CDU if it has one.

Probably around 30 amps for the main fuse.
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Old 23-08-2017, 04:36 PM
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The indicators and rear brake lights are led so will have to look up the spec, plus led side lights. The bulk of the loom is quite standard with only a few additional bits plus I've added a digital speedo and idiot lights and 2 horns. I'll have to figure it all out and will post when have all the info. Do remember the main fuse was 30amp though. Believe it or not we got a puppy and it managed to get at my trike and eat a large part of the loom along with the fuse box and indicator relays and piss all over it. The mess was unbelievable
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Old 23-08-2017, 04:48 PM
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If the majority of lights are LED then they'll be drawing no more than a couple of amps.
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Old 23-08-2017, 05:10 PM
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Bungy, if you're not in a desperate hurry, hang on, I've got an old Haynes manual for a Yam XJ9000 F stashed away in a container which I can get to on Monday.

I'll dig it out and find out any relevant info/diagrams in the book for you, if you like?
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Old 23-08-2017, 05:52 PM
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Hi tetlee, this is very embarrassing as I have the Haynes manual as I've been using the wiring diagram. Completely forgot if turn back a few pages where it actually tells you the fuses. That's my age showing lol

I'm sure I didn't have 2 10amp fuses though a could of sworn one was a 13amp. Would having 2 horns affect a fuse, or the extra marker lights as originally they were proper bulbs and not led?
It's saying ignition is 10, headlight 20, turn signal 10 and main 30.

Trike has 4 led brake lights, ordinary 35 watt headlight, ordinary number plate light, 4 x led marker lights still has its cdu 4 x led indicators, digital speedo with integrated rev counter and idiot lights which I can't find out how much power it pulls, and beside indicator and hazard relay and oil sensor and neutral sensor I can't think of anything else on it. Do those fuses sound like they're ok or is it worth trying to figure out if I'm going to need a 13 somewhere?

I can follow a wiring diagram ok and understand the basic principles but when I comes to more complex figuring out ampages and stuff I admit I get out of my depth.
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Old 23-08-2017, 06:09 PM
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" That's my age showing lol "

It's ok mate, I'm in the same memory club and as far as electrics go I agree with what a School Teacher said many years ago.." You have the technical abilities of a small Water Melon lad, you are an idiot."

Anything beyond simple one for one fuse/bulb replacement on my advice would result in a Trike fire....
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Old 23-08-2017, 08:10 PM
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At a guess around 15 amps should cover the horns. Purely as they are used for short duration.
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Old 24-08-2017, 06:41 AM
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Cheers strima, I should be able to get power through the thing now with less worry about it catching fire.

And Tetlee, yeah I've definitely got to that age where the memory is starting to go.
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Old 24-08-2017, 08:38 AM
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I generally run 10 amp 5 to 10 amp max on wiring that i haven't done to insure that wires don't spontaneously combust
But it can be worked out by knowing the amperage of the wire and the load,
have a red here http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/fuses-guide-uses.html
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Old 24-08-2017, 09:15 AM
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I've just had a horrible thought. I've used 16.5amp rated wire for all the rear lights and rear indicators but if I understand correctly there's a 20amp fuse involved in that circuit. Am I going to have to start again with higher rated wire?
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Old 24-08-2017, 01:13 PM
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Its always best to have the fuse rated at less than the wiring, and obviously just higher than the rated current draw.
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Old 24-08-2017, 01:16 PM
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Put a 15 amp fuse in, it'll be fine.

TBH the fuse will pop before the wire sets fire to things.
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Old 24-08-2017, 02:38 PM
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Thanks for the advice.

I've decide to change the wiring to 21amp as the way I've rigged it up it isn't actually all that difficult a job to do as the one intelligent thing I did was to plan ahead so the entire rear end can not only be disconnected from the main loom, but that piece can also be separated from the rear lights without having to touch them for if I ever needed to get the rear mudguards off or replace them and the lights for any reason, which was impossible with the original way it was wired in, so really it's just a section I have to replace.
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Old 25-08-2017, 04:52 AM
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Next stop...240v mains cable?
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Old 25-08-2017, 07:41 AM
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The mains lead and all the other wires are fine and I only used the wrong amp wire for the lights as I never thought they would need over 20amps, but you live and learn.

The info I've had on here as been really useful and given me the last pieces of information I needed to make everything fall in to place. I haven't touched electrics in decades and had obviously forgotten just about everything I knew, and it wasn't all that much in the first place but after having sat for weekends on end staring endlessly at the wiring diagram and the remains of my loom and tracing every wire from start to finish I've learnt more about wiring a bike than I ever thought I would and it all now makes logical sense how it works and I've gone from being like a lot of other people and being scared of electrics on a bike to being confident enough to get in there and do it myself.

I'd encourage anyone who's scared of electrics to just give it a go and the very best advice I can give is to break the wiring down in to individual circuits and not look at is as a whole as it's a hell of a lot easier to get your head around.
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Old 25-08-2017, 08:03 AM
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I admit at this stage it looks daunting but it isn't really.

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Old 25-08-2017, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Friar Tuck View Post
Next stop...240v mains cable?
Actually that's often what i use, as the rated amperage at 240V is fine for most bike applications other than starters, for a headlamp of 50w would draw roughly 4 amps at 12v so you can get away with using 5 amp mains cable, the beauty of mains cable is you can get some quite thin 5 or 7 amp cables with up to 4 cores, so makes running them through the frame easy.
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Old 25-08-2017, 08:48 AM
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The problem with using mains cable is the insulation does not have the same properties as automotive stuff such as oil and heat resistance.

Also the thin wall automotive comes in a few more colours...

You can also get away with using a cable of a lower rating than the fuse, as the fuses are quick to blow under fault and won't allow enough time for the cable to heat up and cause problems. As long as the cable is rated above the load you're putting on it you won't have any problems.
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Old 25-08-2017, 10:34 AM
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Used it off and on for the last 40 years...never had a problem yet, never needed more than three colours and perhaps an earth, and you can always use a tag or tape if you need more and don't make a diagram.
Also used plain old extension cables for running power supply to my sheds, exposed to UV and all weathers without problems, so its survived the test of time for me.
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