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Old 31-12-2016, 11:21 AM
Tricky-Dicky Tricky-Dicky is offline
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Default To oil cool or not...T150/T160 owners?

Thought i would start a discussion here, and see what peoples opinions are, i am planning to run my T160 motor without an oil cooler, and i will obviously monitor both oil pressure and temp.

My thoughts are that the T160 motor may be over cooled in normal use, as the oil pump design is far superior to the older piston pump of the twins, so flow rate is far faster, and on that premise its going to get around the lines and tank which will have a good cooling effect on it own.

Now i have run my old pre unit Bonnie at 90 for two or three hours at a time on the motorway with the old mineral oils with no problems or low oil pressure (didn't monitor temp) but pressure is also a good indication, and to my thinking with today's semi or fully synthetic oils no cooler should be no problem as i doubt the engine will see more than 120c even in summer.


So i am going to try and see what the verdict is, hate that dam ugly cooler anyway, and should it come to it i am sure i can build something far more compact and stylish for the job.
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Old 31-12-2016, 12:31 PM
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I think with the ambient air temperature in the UK rarely going higher than the high 20s you would probably get away with no cooler, good airflow over the tank will also help.
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Old 31-12-2016, 05:00 PM
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Default oil cooler

hi my old t120 never had one and used to pink like mad in hot weather, fitting an electronic ignition system and lowering compression stopped it getting so hot under the collar but i think id be happier having one as you said a nice neat one instead of triumphs unsightly original.
love old triumphs wish i hadn't sold with how much they fetch these days and i used to be a member of the triumph owners club over meridian, perhaps ask those guys on tomcc as I'm sure someones done what you want.
all the best
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Old 31-12-2016, 07:25 PM
Tricky-Dicky Tricky-Dicky is offline
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Don't think pre ignition is likely to be a problem as its more timing and fueling related, never known other engines to det because of over oil temp, but i guess we will see once its on the road.

i am still a little unsure if its likely to need a rebore, as when i got it it was a bit stuck, although it could well have been the old Triumph kick start quadrant problem, But after some WD and oil down the bore it feed up, but i think it still has a stuck ring as i put a compression tester on it and although they are all a little low, the left hand pot is showing low compression, but occasionally comes up slightly, so i am going to leave it be and see if running it sorts it out.

If not its, not a problem to pull the top end and rebore....well apart from the cost these days, got a shock when i looked up the price!

On another note the fork seals seem to be weeping, just wondering if anyone has managed to replace them without dismantling the tubes...lost my special super long screw driver when i moved!
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Old 31-12-2016, 08:31 PM
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You might get away with changing the fork seals with the stanchions in place, IIRC Triumph fork seals were never a brilliant fit.

I'll let you know when I rip out my T140 seals hopefully tomorrow.
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Old 03-01-2017, 10:26 AM
Tricky-Dicky Tricky-Dicky is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strima View Post
You might get away with changing the fork seals with the stanchions in place, IIRC Triumph fork seals were never a brilliant fit.

I'll let you know when I rip out my T140 seals hopefully tomorrow.
Any joy with fitting the seals?
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Old 03-01-2017, 10:56 AM
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Any joy with fitting the seals?
Didn't get chance, ended up stripping the clutch instead...
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Old 03-01-2017, 04:46 PM
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After an hour of battling I managed to get the seals out, and no I couldn't do it with the fork leg in place...

Bearing in mind mine have been sat in the same position for at least 28 years so were a little brittle.
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Old 03-01-2017, 05:22 PM
Tricky-Dicky Tricky-Dicky is offline
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I would think that my ones have been in place for that long, question when you removed the stanchions by removing the allen screw in the bottom of the leg, did you need to use something to hold the top of the damper assembly or where you able to just slacken it without?
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Old 03-01-2017, 06:02 PM
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The bolt came straight out, I've found they normally do but tightening up is where the problem lies.
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Old 04-01-2017, 04:38 AM
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Quote:
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Bearing in mind mine have been sat in the same position for at least 28 years so were a little brittle.
Are you referring to you or the seals? Sounds like summat out of Monty Python...
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