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  #61  
Old 04-03-2016, 09:38 PM
HOS HOS is offline
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Originally Posted by Strider View Post
Find a heavier lady?
Almost lol
Got a biggish mate to help with a 3/4 drive HGV socket set.
I'm not exactly petite myself.
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  #62  
Old 05-03-2016, 12:28 AM
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Default Impact bar

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Originally Posted by HOS View Post
Almost lol
Got a biggish mate to help with a 3/4 drive HGV socket set.
I'm not exactly petite myself.
What you need for job's like that is an impact bar

Also great for undoing thing's where you can't get the rattle gun in there, the first time I saw one used was my mate replacing a Sierra crank pully without dropping the rad I just knew I needed one

You can also use them as a breaker bar well worth having

What make to buy? I have only had my hands on two one was the Snap On one that belonged to my mate (boss when ever I'm in his garage ) and the Draper Expert one that i have, both work equally well, mine is standing up well with no wobble on the socket end
These two i can recommend others may be even better but I don't know
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  #63  
Old 08-03-2016, 01:31 PM
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Default Nail polish in my tool box

No joking I use this stuff a lot

If I haven't got a torque setting or it's over the 80 ft lb that my torque wrench get's up too, or if I feel that the torque settings given are not right for the job i'm doing
I put two spots of nail polish to one on the fitting one on what ever the fittings going into if the marks still line up after a week or so i just pick them off with a finger nail if not i will undo the fitting a touch line it all up again then go a bit tighter

Another job I use nail polish for is when fitting timing belts two marks on the top pulley/ cog and also on the belt three on the bottom pulley/cog and also on the belt leave one tooth between the marks then one mark on other pulley's/cogs and on the belt let it dry before removing the belt, once the belt is off mark the new belt in the same places this way you know you have the new belt fitted correctly, hold the belt in place with small bulldog type clips until you have the tensioner back on
Unless it's a big Vauxhall or Saab then get someone else to do it for you

Really hope this makes sense Dai
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Last edited by wiskers; 08-03-2016 at 01:36 PM.
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  #64  
Old 12-03-2016, 01:17 PM
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Default Ratchet tool's keep em sweet

This is an old trick that i was shown by an old fella forty plus year's ago

Every year or so i used to strip clean and lube my ratchets now the only time they get stripped down is if the method below wont work then usually the gears have stripped or the detent spring needs replacing

In the garage I have two gallon buckets with lids one has parafin one has ATF about two inches in each bucket

Every year or so if the ratchet is nice and smooth it will go into the bucket with the ATF, if it's a bit sticky or slips now and again it will go into the parafin overnight then lifted out put into a plastic sieve over the bucket to drain before being put into the ATF bucket, again soak over night then again drain in the sieve for a good while until it stops dripping give them a wipe over with a clean cloth that's it done,

I still have the Craftsmen ratchet that came with the socket set that my parents bought me for my 18th birthday the only part that i have replaced is the detent spring, it was a used set when i was given it but still works as well as the day i got it, my dad had a thing about American tool's that has stuck with me, i can only think my dad got that set from one of his American mate's he met serving in the RAF during the war

This works with all ratchets even the pressed together Chinese one's that can't be taken apart

My ratchet spanners get the same treatment but always go into the parafin first

Ratcheting screwdrivers get a drop of 3in1 nothing more

Hope this one helps Dai

Edit. I even soak new ratchets overnight before using them just so i know they have plenty of lube in them many new ratchets seem to miss being lubed in the factory
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Last edited by wiskers; 12-03-2016 at 01:41 PM. Reason: Edit bit
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  #65  
Old 13-03-2016, 06:30 AM
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Erm....What's ATF?
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  #66  
Old 13-03-2016, 09:35 AM
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Erm....What's ATF?
Automatic transmission fluid also known as Dexron

It's also good for gearbox's, primary chain casings and shaft drive's
I did once try it in forks once thinking it would be perfect for the job (it has seal swell so i thought it would work ) the forks went soft quickly, so I went back to using pre mix two stroke oil.
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Last edited by wiskers; 13-03-2016 at 09:59 AM. Reason: Addin stuf
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  #67  
Old 13-03-2016, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by wiskers View Post
No joking I use this stuff a lot

If I haven't got a torque setting or it's over the 80 ft lb that my torque wrench get's up too, or if I feel that the torque settings given are not right for the job i'm doing
I put two spots of nail polish to one on the fitting one on what ever the fittings going into if the marks still line up after a week or so i just pick them off with a finger nail if not i will undo the fitting a touch line it all up again then go a bit tighter

Another job I use nail polish for is when fitting timing belts two marks on the top pulley/ cog and also on the belt three on the bottom pulley/cog and also on the belt leave one tooth between the marks then one mark on other pulley's/cogs and on the belt let it dry before removing the belt, once the belt is off mark the new belt in the same places this way you know you have the new belt fitted correctly, hold the belt in place with small bulldog type clips until you have the tensioner back on
Unless it's a big Vauxhall or Saab then get someone else to do it for you

Really hope this makes sense Dai
An old trick we used on the AA with nail varnish. When a distributor cap or ignition coil suffered from "tracking" This is caused by a spark passing through dirt and oil on the plastic and burning it to form carbon. We would scrape the carbon out of the groove it made for itself and then coat it with nail varnish which is a good insulator.

Rarely needed on modern vehicles but still handy for any older vehicles.


For marking things I tend to use a tipex pen. It shows up really well on dark surfaces.
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  #68  
Old 13-03-2016, 08:17 PM
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When I ran old British stuff I got fed up changing gearbox sprockets and then spending ages setting up the clutch.

(For those not in the know many old Brits the gearbox sprocket lived behind the clutch.)

I found I could make the sprocket last much longer by buying two chains when I fitted new sprockets (Always both together) There was none of the modern O ring chains about so they needed proper maintenance. I washed them in petrol and then put them in linklife, this is a pan of chain grease that you melted on the cooker if the wife was out or on a camp stove if she was in.

One chain goes on the bike and the other is wrapped in an oily cloth and stored safely. Every six weeks or so I would swap them over, now this is the clever bit, as the front sprocket is so inaccesible, turn the back wheel till the joining link is on the rear sprocket. Split the chain and join the new chain to the old one. Pull the old chain off and it pulls the new one on.

Clean and regrease the old chain and store as before.

The sprockets only wear out as the chain does so like this they last far longer and swapping them is easy this way.
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  #69  
Old 14-03-2016, 06:25 AM
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Keep a decent First Aid kit to hand. And if you really do an nasty injury a dab ofsuper glue works wonders while you rush to A and E! My mate decided that cutting carpet with a Stanley knife was a good idea until he got behind the knife and slipped slicing well into his thumb the only thing I could think of at the time was a blob of superglue on the wound and wrap it in a tea towel, and then drive him to the Hospital. The Docs weren't happy about the superglue but it saved his thumb apparently!
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  #70  
Old 20-03-2016, 11:18 AM
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Default Handy bit of kit

A few years ago i bought this set along with the expansion set
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Irwin-Bolt-G...n+bolt+remover
These have proved themselves over and over they really do work
Mostly they have been used for locking wheel nuts where the owner has lost the key, most locking wheel nuts will need the expansion set, i also bought the screw removing set these have again proved themselves many times over removing studs, nuts, bolts and cap head screws with ease
Looking on eBay last night i noticed the same thing far cheaper probably made in China but i would imagine they will still do the same job

Edit. You will need to replace the fitting with new when you use these but if they're fucked enough to use these they need replacing anyway
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Last edited by wiskers; 20-03-2016 at 08:47 PM. Reason: The bit that says Edit
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  #71  
Old 26-03-2016, 12:39 PM
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Default Let's talk about lubing your nut's

http://www.cncexpo.com/MetricBoltTorqueNm.aspx

Remember when using charts like these the settings given are for a nut and bolt of similar metals when fixing through something or for fixing into a similar metal DO NOT use these settings when putting a fixing into aluminium or anything softer than the fixing

You may well be thinking oh fuck not again but it is important to understand the difference between wet and dry torque values the link above is one of many charts available that show the difference between wet and dry values that chart is in Newton Meters I picked that one as most of today's torque wrenches have that setting the same site has conversion tables i print these and laminate then so I always have them to hand

What you may not have realised is that if you use threadlok on the fastening it counts as wet

What's really important here is knowing that some some fixings are designed to stretch some are not, some cylinder head bolts,studs, for example are one use and should only be used once, most bolt's,and fixings that give a torque angle after a torque setting will be designed to stretch a certain amount if you overtighten these they will have to be replaced as they will be weakened and could snap at any time

Myself i will tighten fixings between 50 & 70% when lubed if using threadlok I go about 60%

Knowing this means that you have a fixing that has to go to 100Ft Lb and your torque wrench only goes up to 80Ft Lb's you can lube the threads and set your torque wrench 70Ft Lb's

Hope this all makes sense Dai
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Last edited by wiskers; 26-03-2016 at 01:11 PM. Reason: The remember bit at the top
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  #72  
Old 27-03-2016, 06:19 AM
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Bluddy 'ell! Logrythyms? I just tighten up nuts and bolts, then plus one half turn extra. Worked for me for years!
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  #73  
Old 27-03-2016, 10:08 AM
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Bluddy 'ell! Logrythyms? I just tighten up nuts and bolts, then plus one half turn extra. Worked for me for years!
Worked when everything was iron and steel now it's all aluminium and magnesium with some pot metal thrown in fukin technology
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  #74  
Old 19-04-2016, 11:13 AM
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Default More for cars this one

Most modern vehicle's these day's have plastic headlight lenses even some bike's are fitted with them

These things tend to either go cloudy or yellow over time you can get them clear again

A little bit of elbow grease and either T,Cut or some Cif cleaner nicked from the kitchen you will be surprised how quickly they will come clear again
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  #75  
Old 19-04-2016, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by wiskers View Post
Most modern vehicle's these day's have plastic headlight lenses even some bike's are fitted with them

These things tend to either go cloudy or yellow over time you can get them clear again

A little bit of elbow grease and either T,Cut or some Cif cleaner nicked from the kitchen you will be surprised how quickly they will come clear again

Or toothpaste but not gel Use it on plastic car headlights as well.
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  #76  
Old 19-04-2016, 05:55 PM
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Default Bleeding brakes !!!

Being a slightly older biker I was reluctant to change when it came to charging and bleeding brake and clutch lines. The only concession I had made over the years was in using stainless steel easi-bleed nipples. They are one way bleed nipples basically. How many times I've knocked the glass jar over, or flicked fluid from a tube onto paintwork.........

Then someone showed me a Mityvac brake bleeder and I was blown away.
So eventually I bought one for about 40, they do all different models and specs. All it does is create a vacuum in a plastic tank fixed to the bleed "gun" (pump). All you do is open the bleed nipple and the vacuum draws the fluid through from the resevoir. You just have to make sure you don't let the fluid level drop too low in the handlebar reservoir. Once the lines are charged, bleeding takes seconds using the same procedure and it uses minimal fluid.
You control the flow with a spanner on the bleed nipple.

As an example of how easy it is to use effectively, I charged 3 new brake lines and the new clutch line and bled them all in about 15 minutes tops.

How to use a Mityvac.
https://youtu.be/PwAQ2qDQjPg
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  #77  
Old 20-04-2016, 05:47 AM
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Originally Posted by wiskers View Post
Most modern vehicle's these day's have plastic headlight lenses even some bike's are fitted with them

These things tend to either go cloudy or yellow over time you can get them clear again

A little bit of elbow grease and either T,Cut or some Cif cleaner nicked from the kitchen you will be surprised how quickly they will come clear again
I worked for a company that supplied windows, ports, and hatches to the Gin Palace Yacht industry, and we frequently used Brasso as an alternative to remove scratches on glass. One thing to remember when removing scratches, always work in a circular motion and work outwards to about possibly double the size of the scratch as you will end up with a fish eye effect, if you are clearing up a screen, especially. Also if using a drill to polish out the scratch 3M do a small polishing mop especially for this.
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  #78  
Old 20-04-2016, 05:49 AM
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Being a slightly older biker I was reluctant to change when it came to charging and bleeding brake and clutch lines. The only concession I had made over the years was in using stainless steel easi-bleed nipples. They are one way bleed nipples basically. How many times I've knocked the glass jar over, or flicked fluid from a tube onto paintwork.........

Then someone showed me a Mityvac brake bleeder and I was blown away.
So eventually I bought one for about 40, they do all different models and specs. All it does is create a vacuum in a plastic tank fixed to the bleed "gun" (pump). All you do is open the bleed nipple and the vacuum draws the fluid through from the resevoir. You just have to make sure you don't let the fluid level drop too low in the handlebar reservoir. Once the lines are charged, bleeding takes seconds using the same procedure and it uses minimal fluid.
You control the flow with a spanner on the bleed nipple.

As an example of how easy it is to use effectively, I charged 3 new brake lines and the new clutch line and bled them all in about 15 minutes tops.

How to use a Mityvac.
https://youtu.be/PwAQ2qDQjPg
Thanks for that, I'm going to need that when I change the hoses and discs over.
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  #79  
Old 20-04-2016, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Friar Tuck View Post
Thanks for that, I'm going to need that when I change the hoses and discs over.
For years i have done it the old fashioned way


With a syringe from the bleed nipple but i will look into the breeders HOS recommend

Well I watched a couple of videos

And just bought this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Last edited by wiskers; 20-04-2016 at 08:13 AM.
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  #80  
Old 20-04-2016, 09:58 AM
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For years i have done it the old fashioned way


With a syringe from the bleed nipple but i will look into the breeders HOS recommend

Well I watched a couple of videos

And just bought this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Same thing and a hell of a lot cheaper.
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  #81  
Old 20-04-2016, 08:58 PM
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Oddly I've never had problems bleeding stuff, I rebuilt the rear master cylinder on me bike recently and it probably took me two minutes to bleed it the old fashioned way.
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  #82  
Old 20-04-2016, 09:02 PM
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I used to have problems with my old 400 Superdream, but again the time-honoured method of bungeeing up the brake lever overnight never failed for me!
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  #83  
Old 20-04-2016, 09:32 PM
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Since my back has been getting worse over the years i tend to buy thing's that make the job quicker or with less bending having seen a few video's on the vacuum bleeders I think I will be able to do each brake only bending down twice once to loosen the nipple and once to tighten it again,

Bet it won't work out that way but that's what I'm hoping

Now I'm finding that i have to use breaker bars and impact guns on job's that i used to use ratchets for

Soon I will do a sort of review on the cordless impact guns (wrenches ) i have used and own or it may just be a quick overview

B,G, you just reminded me of another use for PTFE Tape a lot of the Japanese calliper's were buggers to bleed they used to suck air past the threads on the nipples a wrap or two of PTFE tape made thing's a lot easier
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