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  #241  
Old 15-09-2014, 05:58 PM
MisterB MisterB is offline
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Coming up to date, I'd given myself a headache by using a one off billet rear wheel, I now needed a matching front wheel. The hubs and centres could be made, its the rims that are the tricky part. Suitable split rims aren't easy to find, and if you do find any, they aren't cheap.

But I had a cunning plan, involving the sacrifice of one of these.. a 17 inch gold Astralite that had seen better days, which came off a mates old Z1 drag bike. New Astralites are being made again such is the demand, and go for over a thousand quid a pair. I was reluctant to destroy mine, but needs must.
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  #242  
Old 15-09-2014, 06:00 PM
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The wheel consists of two sides which are riveted together at the rim, with an alloy hub sandwiched in the centre. We drilled out each of rivets, separated the two halves, then cut the outer rim section from the wheel halves.

Next we machined a new billet centre (the spokes), which was drilled with 80 blind holes (40 each side) to match the rivet holes in the rims. Usually with split rim wheels, the rims and centres are drilled and held together with bolts and nuts. But my mate Jeff insists on doing it his way. The holes in the rims are bevelled to take countersunk socket head bolts, while the billet centres aren't drilled to take a nut and bolt, but drilled and tapped by hand. This means there are no nuts needed, all you see if 40 countersunk socket heads on each side of the wheel.

This is a work in progress pic of the new wheel. The centre spokes needed to be machined to match the rear wheel. and reduce the weight a little
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  #243  
Old 15-09-2014, 06:05 PM
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Last week I took the bike apart and had a long trip all the way to Norfolk with the frame in the back of my little hatchback. Briz of CCD will do the work on the frame in the next couple of weeks.

When the frame comes back, its going to need a dozen or so small brackets added, to mount the seat, catch tank etc. I was resigned to making each one by hand, until I found I could buy them off Ebay for less than a quid each. Here's one roughly where the seat mount will go, with a panel bolt/washer I had left over from my old Ducati restoration, knew they'd come in useful one day.

Another good buy was this lanyard ignition cut off, which is required if you go racing. Found this for a tenner, they are normally fitted to quad bikes and jet skis, seems well made for the price
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  #244  
Old 15-09-2014, 06:07 PM
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I'm still on the look out for a good pair of 43mm forks, as my yokes are almost finished. Here they are having their slots cut on Jeff's miller..

http://youtu.be/0fkvAG-WW70
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  #245  
Old 15-09-2014, 06:15 PM
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And that brings us up to date. The plan is to get it up and running by xmas. This is a pretty quick build for me, it wont be perfect but it'll do for next year, then maybe it'll get a proper lightweight chrome moly frame and more power over the following winter. That's if I don't blow the engine up in the meantime.

The push to get it done by xmas is so that I can run it in on my mates dyno when their business is quiet. The engine will need about twenty hours of careful running in before it can be used in anger. My mate doesn't know about this yet, but I'll nag him till he agrees
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  #246  
Old 15-09-2014, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterB View Post
My mate doesn't know about this yet, but I'll nag him till he agrees
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  #247  
Old 06-10-2014, 08:53 PM
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4am start for me when I went to collect my frame, after the headstock has been raked, lowered and stretched. Briz the frame maker did a good job, all for 250. And here's his shop shop dog.. its huge a Newfoundland / old English sheep dog cross.

With the frame back home, took a couple of days to work out where all the small tabs and brackets needed to go, and weld them onto the frame. Then the engine and box went back in, along with the home made stainless exhaust from my old bike, while I made a mount for air tank and rectifier. The oil filter should fit below them, but as often happens the oil filter bracket doesn't fit now the down tubes have been modified, so it'll need a bit of machining next.

The drive side hub of the back wheel needs to be narrowed by a few more mm to get the chain lined up with the gearbox sprocket. While the rear caliper mount needs to be replaced as I didn't like the way its torque arm would look. In best Blue Peter tradition I used an old cereal box to make a template for the seat base. Geoff the welder will make it for me in steel, as he can do in five minutes what would take me hours.
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  #248  
Old 21-10-2014, 01:31 PM
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Made some good progress last week. Got the frame painted with Hammerite satin black.. should make it easier to touch up the paint if I need to mod the frame in the future.

Had Geoff the welder make me the seat base for twenty quid, wasn't worth me spending hours to do it myself.

Made the rear brake mount and pushrod, still needs a bush making to allow the pedal to pivot.

Finished repainting the oil tank, the finish wasn't very good, needed a lot of elbow grease and cutting polish before it looked presentable.
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  #249  
Old 21-10-2014, 01:35 PM
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With the frame paint dry, I wrapped it in yesterdays newspaper to protect it from being scratched when the engine went back in. I wasn't looking forward to lifting the engine into the frame, its 85kg and I have a sprained wrist that's still on the mend. It was gonna hurt

I wasn't wrong, it did bloody hurt, but the engine went in ok and the frame paint remained unscathed.

Once the oil tank was back on the bike, the gearbox could go back in too, hopefully for the last time. After that there's been a few smaller jobs to be getting on with.


Spray the seat unit with undercoat and order the Ducati Red paint to match the tank.

Make a Mark 2 rear caliper bracket and torque arm.

Make a start on polishing some of the alloy brackets, risers etc

Bought some drag bars.. Renthal alloy in satin black, they were a cancelled order at my local bike shop so couldn't say no when they're half price.

Ordered a throttle online, came from Bangkok of all places, it arrived 4 days later.
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  #250  
Old 21-10-2014, 01:38 PM
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Before the stainless exhaust went back on the bike, I cleaned them up at bit, we both still bare the scars of previous foolishness..
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  #251  
Old 29-10-2014, 09:15 PM
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I was quite pleased with the paint and lacquer on the seat unit, turned out better than I'd hoped, using just rattle cans. It looked even better after it had been polished, though not for long

I'd fitted a decal that I then decided didn't look right, being too clever by half I used a hair dryer to soften the decal, making it easier to remove. Which worked ok, but unbeknown to me the heat also softened the fresh paint and as I peeled away the decal, the paint came away too.

After I calmed down, nothing for it but to start again, beginning with many coats of filler primer..

The exhaust system has been giving me a few problems. Basically it doesn't fit the engine. It should, as it came off a similar big inch Evo engine, but it doesn't. Mainly because the heads of this aftermarket engine seem to have deeper fins, which means the springs I use to hold the downpipes together wont fit.

Instead I had the short exhaust 'headers' welded onto the downpipes, no need for springs anymore. But still they wouldn't fit. These headers are 2 inch diameter instead of the OE 1 3/4 inch, which means I had to machine the collets a little, this leaves less room for the nuts which fasten the collets to the head. Don't remember it being such a problem on the old bike, but on this one there's not enough room around the exhaust studs to tighten the nuts holding it all together.

The solution is to use a special narrow type of nut, I've seen them before, but I didn't know what they are called (since found out they are called sleeve nuts). They are long hex nuts, with a thread at one end and a socket head at the other, so they can be tightened with an allen key. Closest I've found to what's needed are special head nuts from Triumph T140, they are 5/16 inch thread, but don't know if UNC or UNF, be perfect if they were UNF... later found out they are, so ordered them from Morgo the Triumph specialists.
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  #252  
Old 29-10-2014, 09:16 PM
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Got the yokes back for a test fitting. The old HD steering stem we used must be the most modified in history. Its been hollowed out to lighten it, had a billet collar shrunk on its base so it fits the bottom yoke and has a completely different way of adjustment. All that and it still isn't quite right. That's the problem with having the bike in one garage and the lathe in another across town. Not a big problem, just needs a small spacer making and it'll be fine.

The risers look too tall on the bike, and they probably are. That's because they were made before I could sit on the bike and check the riding position. Rather than wait, we made the risers an inch or two longer, knowing that it will be an easy job to mill them down to whatever length will be ideal.

The bars are 29 inches wide, about standard these days, but they looked like beech bars on the bike, so I chopped an inch off each end. I would've preferred to narrow them even more, but that can cause problems finding space for brake banjo bolts and clutch cables.
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  #253  
Old 29-10-2014, 09:21 PM
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Fitted the air shifter ram and the oil filter mount this week, the latter needed machining to clear the frame tubes, pity as it was chromed, but needs must.

This is what the bike looks like today, going ok, except no front wheel or forks. The forks are still attached to another bike which is getting a new front end, so I'm just waiting for that to happen before I can get my hands on the forks I need. The rear wheel has had its hubs narrowed to align the front and rear sprockets. The front wheel is still a week or two away from being built.

I've done my bit by sorting out the rims which were cut out of an old Astralite wheel. They were originally anodised black, then sometime in the last couple of decades they were painted gold. Don't know what with, but its good stuff, I found it very difficult to remove.

After an hour of faffing about with the rims, I took them to a local machine shop who have a blasting cabinet. I asked how much to bead blast the two half rims ? The owner (Who I knew slightly), replied we're too busy this week, but the cabinets over there, you can do it yourself if you want. Couldn't refuse .. and an hour later the rims were looking much better. Cost me nothing except some promised biscuits next time I'm passing. I was surprised how fine the glass beads were they use, it felt closer to flour than sand I'd used before. But it worked ok and left a smooth finish ready to be polished
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  #254  
Old 06-11-2014, 03:20 PM
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Got 4 stainless socket / sleeve nuts from Morgo the Triumph oil pump company, not cheap but they are stainless and do the job, so I'm happy.

Made a lot of progress last few days, and been given some useful stuff too

Over braided hose arrived, so could get on and make up the oil lines. Need to pay attention as its easy to get them mixed up (the are no markers or id on the oil tank etc).. I've seen it done, result being one seized newly rebuilt Harley.. thankfully not mine.
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  #255  
Old 06-11-2014, 03:23 PM
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The split rim rear wheel leaked like a sieve, used bathroom sealant to make it airtight.. went for quantity over quality .. Better not leak after this..! I'll get the tyre re fitted soon.... edit to add it still leaks

Made a rear splash guard in stainless, the fuse box can live here too.

Downpipes are on at last, they sit slightly differently from the old bike, so will need to modify the collector or make another. The old exhaust collector could do with a tad more silencing, some tracks have a 104 db noise limit. This exhaust probably exceeds that at idle.
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  #256  
Old 06-11-2014, 03:24 PM
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Finally got my hands on the ZXR750 forks off the other project bike and they went straight in the yokes without any problems. I had a mint Brembo 4 pot goldline caliper which happened to fit these forks perfectly, or at least they looked like they did. But turns out the mounting holes are 1.5mm different. Bloody typical. Still want to use the Brembo as it matches the rear, so will need to make a bracket.
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  #257  
Old 10-12-2014, 11:27 PM
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After all the hassle with getting the rear wheel airtight (had it seam welded in the end), didn't take any chances with the front wheel. We machined a bevel in the top edge of the wheel centre where it joins with the rims to make it easier to apply the sealant. While the rim edges were checked and double checked for any burrs etc before we bolted them to the centre using plenty of good quality gasket sealant.

The used Suzuki GSXR 750 K8 disc I was given needed an adaptor making to mount it to the hub, its not very pretty but it will do for now, it can be drilled / lightened / shaped later. The disc bolts aren't anything special (far too expensive), they're just standard hex head bolts which have been 'tickled' in the lathe.
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  #258  
Old 10-12-2014, 11:31 PM
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The front wheel turned out to be airtight thankfully, with a used (free) tyre the bike was finally on its wheels, so I could push it outside and make brmmmm brummmm noises when nobody was looking. But not before I had the local machine shop extend the M18 thread a few mm to match the slightly wider than standard yokes. This didn't come cheap.. cost me a box of Mr Kiplings finest Mince pies ..

Also made a simple hand change and finally got the clutch adjustment right.

Picked up a tired ZZR1100 caliper which fits the ZXR750 forks on the bike. I've ordered new seals for it, and a trip to a bead blaster would clean up the grotty body.. think I'll need to buy another box of Mince pies
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