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Old 27-09-2010, 07:37 PM
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Default Project Budget CafeFighter

Well not finished my `project budget dragqueen` quite as yet as you can see from my build thread, but Im not far off done and the remaining stuff to do is mainly buying parts which I don’t have dosh for at minute. So I thought sod it might as well think about next project in line for me and make a start stripping down and planning it out.

Bike in question is my long suffering daily ride ZX6R fighter. Was standard till hit a stag years back which wiped out cosmetics. Lol. 3 days n £50 rebuild got it on road again as below.:-



Stayed that way for many years being my daily transport through rain n 1` of snow n worst of Scottish highlands weather. 800 mile weekends touring with my wife, etc, etc. Lived outside mostly too, yet never broke down once. Got a garage now and work from home airbrushing so no need to commute any more. Failed its mot recently as swingarm bearings shot so using it as a good opportunity to give the bike some much needed tlc as heading towards ratbike status as getting bit rough round the edges.

What Im aiming to do is make it minimal and light. At mot it weighed in at about 190kg with 2/3 tank of fuel which is already way below 207kg kerb weight of original bike. Has had some jetting n free flowing can so pushing out 100-105 bhp at wheel. Great daily bike as super reliable. Still running original battery and cables and clutch, etc it left factory with 13 years ago! Lol. Had head and sump apart and like a new engine inside. Not even any cam chain stretch. Great handling. Constantly falling off edge of back tyre 2-up with luggage. Good gas mileage even. Perfect bike for twisty little mountain roads up here as nimble n light and geared right down. Cant fault it really. Time to spruce it up n improve it tho. Muwahahahahaha……………

With the heavy stainless guns/rockets n theyre supporting 5mm thick steel stripped off it should drop weight a lot below the 190kg its at now, by at least 10kg if not a lot more. With the bodywork off you can see its pretty lightweight potential.:-



What Im aiming to turn it into is a minimal concept bike/café racer sorta fighter. Practical as no polishing to keep on top of and live 50` from ocean, so black frame, etc. Just a get on n ride kinda bike for everyday use n shopping runs, etc, but still funky. Something along these rough paint doodles from my brainstorming sessions. Twin stacked lights between front nose fairing side plates sat behind mesh for flush unit. All under rear seat, etc flush plate. Side fairings, etc thin alloy plate so light. Rest of bike what Ive already got to make it a cheap ass build. Blank colour to show shapes better.:-



And the colour scheme Im thinking is top of my list so far.;-



Green`s probably in metallic or flakes from Kawasaki green to british racing green or thereabouts. Double yellow racing stripes down the top/middle of bike a la Lotus.:-



Bikes now on my workbench as bandits a rolling bike now n not far off a running bike which`ll be very cool. Time to work.

Ive opted to not strip bike just yet, but to concentrate on getting subframe/body panel mods done n dusted and other parts made up, so then its just strip, paint/polish all the parts and assemble without any hassle as everything will be made already and bolt on.

How Im gonna work back end/subframe without and fancy posh Tig welding gear to weld aluminium is to keep top spars of original subframe which gives me front seat mountings already and can use existing seat and build around it. Remove bottom spars of subframe like below.:-

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Old 27-09-2010, 07:37 PM
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Continued..........


And build up new seat unit in sheet steel cos can weld it together myself. No alloy welding services or anything to fall back on up here on a remote island. To get strength back into subframe Im going to add in some triangulation again which is what little funky angular subframe sections above will be hiding. Something along these lines which bolts to main frame chunky crossmember and braces up to 2 cross members on original subframe top section. Roughly like this doodle.:-



Made a rough start tonight in an hour or so. Stripped panels/undertray n all crap off subframe to get a proper look. Shitloads of black boxes as per sportsbikes, but there`ll be loads of nooks n crannies to hide them away in on re-assembly. All clipped out of way for now.:-



Bare subframe finally found. Lol.:-




Frame crossmember is pretty major so good place to work from for subframe re-inforcement.



Going to weld up an assembly that bolts onto shock mounting, etc in thickwall steel so plenty strong. Sort of like this.:-

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Old 27-09-2010, 07:38 PM
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Continued..........


Which will run up to the back crossmember at back of seat.:-



And up to crossmember just at back of fuel tank in above pic. I`ll add in webbing where possible too to make sure its plenty strong. Should be more than up to job I reckon judging by how flimsy original subframe lower mounts are.

This setup will give me the low profile lower subframe run Im after so can be hidden behind little angular sections on frame.:-



I`ll then chop off lower run of subframe and clean everything up leaving top run in position. I`ll keep section behind front seat as has plenty of handy mounts already there I can use to mount battery box and electrics tray, etc, etc.:-



Well that’s the rough plan for now. Progress might be slow right now as main priority is finishing `project budget dragqueen` off. Not much left to do on her now tho apart from spray a side scoop. After that its spending on last parts which I cant afford right now. Leaves me time to make a start on this project tho in meantime. Loads I can make and strip down without cash injection.

Here we go again! lol
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Old 27-09-2010, 09:41 PM
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them are big lipsticks you got there, get through it a lot?
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Old 27-09-2010, 09:56 PM
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Yeah just at weekends.
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Old 28-09-2010, 05:24 PM
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Quick hour tonight. Not a lot, but can get a lot done in little time. All adds up eventually like my bandit build. Spent good 10 minutes of it humming n hawing about chopping the subframe. One of those no going back moments for me. Not like theres anyone up here on my island that can alloy weld the bits back together if I change my mind. Needed bottom rails off tho to get access.

After the first slice tho worry was gone. Grinning like a manic grinder wielding maniac while my face got splattered in a hot aluminium shower. Pure bliss. Lol. Cut everything rough as can take flap disc on grinder to it later to tidy up rough edges properly and trim everything flush. Purely cut for access at moment. Fookin lower subframe alloy box section weak as fook once removed. Could bend it round my knee by hand!!! Shows how close they cut things on sportsbikes to save weight.

After the carnage n couple bits clamped in place.:-



Cut a bit of 2” x 1” thick wall (bout 2-3mm) steel box for in between back frame section. Nice snug fit between plates and sides of subframe rails to stop any potential movement. Clamped up in place with vice grips for now.:-



Cut a nice recess underneath too to add a bit more support strength. All helps. :-



Couple bolts through n be solid in there. :-



Placed another 2”x1” thickwall bit of box section in running down to shock mount on frame cross member. Only then realized the shock sits off centre by 10-odd mm. Weird, but not a problem. :-



Mitred it at bottom for better fit n strength. Couple tacks of weld for now to hold it together. I`ll weld up the whole assembly solid once done. :-

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Old 28-09-2010, 05:25 PM
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Continued.........

Next up is make a little braced section that welds to other end which is sitting on frame rail at moment. This will allow it to bolt down solid to shock mounting bolt.:-



Then weld on a bit of box section running back up to another frame cross member just behind tank and make mounts to bolt on there where tank bolts on. A bit of webbing/box section between this wee piece and the main box section beam below n should be pretty solid in comparison to original setup. :-



Side shot n profile looks right compared to what Im trying to achieve.:-

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Old 29-09-2010, 09:59 AM
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At first glance it brings to mind the bikes in Tron.

John
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Old 29-09-2010, 10:37 AM
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Do I need to get an 80`s haircut then.
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Old 29-09-2010, 03:30 PM
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Tron bike...$35,000

http://www.bitterwallet.com/hands-up...otorbike/31516

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Old 29-09-2010, 05:14 PM
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John Bike.....£ whateversinskip.
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Old 29-09-2010, 06:20 PM
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Another hour or so tonight.

Cut a bit of the same box section diagonally to give better access to shock absorber bolt. Couple blobs secure it to end of main spar for moment. :-



Bit of grinding down n original fuel pump n filter mount should slot back onto its original position onto shock bolt too. Note insulation tape plaster where box section slipped on pillar drill n whacked me fat thumb. Doh! Lol.:-



Bit of same chunky 2`x1` box run up to frame spar at back of tank. Trianulgated with bit of 1`x1` for strength. Tacked again for now. :-



Need to cut out a bit of plate to weld to top so can bolt assembly to tank mounts along with tank on top of plate. Should make whole thing solid.:-



Hopefully get bit of plate cut out/drilled tomorrow evening n tacked on. Couple of holes for those bolts at back of assembly n that’s about it apart from final welding up.

Took assembly on n off few times making cuts, etc and its an absoloute F**k*r to get in n out of position as made everything so tight fitting as been welding it in place clamped up. Does go though with some brute force flexing remains of original subframe up few mm to slide it in. Better tight fit than sloppy loose tho end of the day. Once welded n cleaned up properly n bolted in place it can stay there. Lol.
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Old 29-09-2010, 08:20 PM
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It looks fine a s a bit of sculpture but can you imagine seeing someone actually ride it? They would look like they were bumming the damn thing......
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Old 30-09-2010, 06:23 PM
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Hour odd tonight got a bit of thick plate cut n drilled n tacked on. Cut down original little seat catch too, with tank sat back in place all bolts down tight to frame cross member as per original setup. :-



Back end drilled n bolted up to frame. Not structurally loaded the bolts, but stops any upwards flex or anything untowards. :-



Original front seat slides back into original mounts n position which saves hassle/cost of new mounts or seat, etc. Profile underneath looks right too. A lot more slimlined. Little angled sections at back of frame will angle inwards towards new subframe rail also which will makeit even more slimlined underneath visually.

Tried jumping up n down on seat and cant feel any flex or movement at all, even tho everything only tack welded at moment. Feels solid.:-



Was going to take off subframe at this point n weld up properly and neaten up edges, etc, but realized it now locates exactly in several planes, so nigh on impossible to remove with shock absorber bolt sticking up. I`ll wait till stripping down bike fully as then subframe will just slide out and can weld n neaten it all up then. Main thing is it fits n does its job. All welded into one assembly anyway so no worries.

Couple inch gap under front seat between seat n subframe onto which undertray will sit. Handy little gap to shove some of electrics black boxes in. :-



Loads of handy mounting points behind seat to mount bodywork and battery box solidly, etc. Could come in handy later on so leaving em all there for now. Might have to chop length back a bit as get seat unit mocked up, but nae probs with Mr. Grinder. Lol. :-



Unbolted a few odds n sods n already the bike has shrunk physically by miles. Loads of stuff to come off front of forks yet which will shrink it even more. :-



Suppose next stage is to neaten up back of frame where chopped off lower subframe rails n mockup little angled covers and seat, etc in cardboard and gaffer tape so can get accurate templates for steel sheet.
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Old 01-10-2010, 08:05 AM
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Reckon it's going look good, that.
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Old 01-10-2010, 09:32 AM
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Reckon so bud. Aiming along lines of original sketches at top. If can get somewhere in that vicinity then I`ll be happy. Summit visually very small/light n modern, yet a bit different to norm.
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Old 01-10-2010, 10:48 AM
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Fantastic job so far, a real pleasure to watch.

John
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Old 01-10-2010, 05:45 PM
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After pissing about with cardboard tonight trying seat shapes I realised couple things.

1. I couldn’t get shape I wanted (i.e. tapering to back of bike) with back section of subframe still there.

2. Getting a decent shape, and trying to remember practicality aint easy. End of the day this has to be a more practical bike than bandit project. Needs 2 seats!

Took few pics n resorted to shaping up a plan on computer to see what way to take things.

This is original pillion seat and cowl in position which is nowhere near shape Im after. :-



The seat and cowl do taper really nicely to back end though and of course have nice compound curves and finished edges, etc to them. Cant see it in photo but tapers few inches narrower at back of seat and has nice rounded shape at tip too. :-



What Im thinking then is to chop the rest of original subframe at red lines below, which is behind structural areas Im using anyway. Then make up a welded on section to my steel crossmember which will support back end of pillon seat much lower down. :-



Pillion seat will be moved forwards several inches with new mounts so centre of its over existing crossmember anyway and supported solidly and safely. Moving pad forwards also shortens front seat slightly giving me a stubby seat unit overall shape wise. Pillion pad angled down so gives me profile Im after, and can then panel in sides as per plan and have shape Im after but 2 seats also. Summit like this rough mockup.:-



Then can run undertray sheetwork up and tuck under edge of seat cowl at back for neat finish and have just enough space behind for some sort of led lighting.:-



Dunno best idea Ive got at moment anyway to compromise between shape/2 seats. Not gonna leave me space for battery under there tho, but sure can cram it elsewhere down the line. One of the fairing side panels would easily hide a battery somewhere if cant get it under tank.
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Old 02-10-2010, 10:45 AM
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Had a rethink last night. Going to cut of few inches of subframe at back n have a go again at mocking up in cardboard to shape I really want as per original doodles. Want the shapes right, and space for battery under back hump, so practicality can take a back seat. Lol. Can always get one of those inflatable sucker pad pillion pads to stick on when needed.

Think Im going to have to go for 3 peice design so top is flat-ish like top of tank, but follows curved side profile as per my doodles, then run side peices up to meet it n weld together. Giving me a squarish edge, but reckon thats probably spot on given rest of bikes going to be angular anyway.

Going to try out a few variations over weekend in cardboard n see what works best.
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Old 02-10-2010, 06:16 PM
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Not a shitload today. Bought some more grinder discs n neatened up back of frame, etc so had nice clear space to work with mocking up.

Spent a while mocking up several different seat shapes with scrap card n gaffer tape, which all looked good from side on profile, but absoloute wank from any other angle. Maybe its just the cardboard, but don’t think it`ll work.

Side profile looks like initial drawing.:-



Buuuuuut of course 3 part design just doesn’t work right when move to slightly different angle n looks wank.:-




Bit disheartening, so stood back n decided to go with a really simplistic one piece curve I can easily make and see how that looked.

Not the shape I had in original doodles, but sometimes what works on screen and what works in reality from different angles are two completely different things. Lol. Best option so far anyway shape wise. Also roughly mocked up frame angled sections to see how they`ll work in reality as curve inwards substantially to join undertray sheet work.

Side profile. :-



Only one little piece needing welded in at front. I`d weld it from behind to keep join neat. Recess it couple mm and then a bit of seat foam or upholstered little rectangle would finish surface off nicely and act as butt stop.:-



Ok from back too. Maybe trim the original front seat pad shape a bit to match bodywork. :-

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Old 02-10-2010, 06:17 PM
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continued.............



Decent space underneath to hide battery and build up a chunky bit of frame work to support it all and a stick on pillion pad when required.

Still needs a bit of playing about with the angles, etc but reckon got potential. Changes design profile a bit, but still works I think.:-



Decisions, decisions………….. Simple curve or work at 3-piece design shape some more!?!?!?!?

Plus of course I cant help but feel original seat cowl n chopped about seat pads has potential still too. Just got a nice shape about it.:-





Maybe chop down both pads and cowl length wise into something short n stubby. :-



Lot to think about. Anyone any ideas?
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Old 03-10-2010, 11:56 AM
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Maybe at a lesser angle it works better n slightly more passenger friendly. Lol. Maybe 2 degrees angled back at most. Looks angled, but that’s photo really as back end of bike is good 3-4” higher than stock as ZX12R shock in there as 2-up workhorse. Practically level seat, but looks angled back in relation to tank which is look Im after.





Got a nice tapered rounded back end to it.:-



Seats flow nice together too.:-



Sorta like this mockup. Shorten front edge of back seat and cowl by 2-3” and move forwards to overlap front seat pad by couple inches too, giving a stumpy/short look. Original seat pads way too long anyway for comfort. My arse aint fat enuf to fill em. Lol. Panel in sides n curve undertray up underneath to tuck in to back edge of cowl.:-



Best I can think of tbh balancing neatness n practicality. Fairly thin profile n mismatch angle between forward slant of tank n seat cowl keeps things in line with original doodles.

Its either this or Z style single curve idea methinks. Leaning towards this tho tbh, even tho no room for battery, I reckon I`ll get a neater finish overall on panels.
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Old 03-10-2010, 12:27 PM
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Flipping around the image above gives this.:-



Doodling that profile onto original sketch n looks pretty good to me anyway.:-



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Old 04-10-2010, 07:57 AM
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Should the angle of the top of the rear seat not match that of the tank and the swingarm wotsit or be close to them anyway? Love the design, but the fact that the upper edge of the seat sits at a completely different angle to everything else seems to break up the flow of the bike to me ...

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Old 04-10-2010, 09:15 AM
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Normally yeah bud, but for my design Im after back of seat looking like sloping vastly downwards in comparison to tank which slopes forwards a lot, to give that humpbacked look as per sketch.

If raise rear of seat up 6" or so to normal level then undertray would have to curve up to meet it resulting in big fat seat unit n just another race rep look. Sorta like 2nd cardboard mockup I did in Z stylee.

Not 100% decided yet between 2 setups tbh.
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Old 04-10-2010, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
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Normally yeah bud, but for my design Im after back of seat looking like sloping vastly downwards in comparison to tank which slopes forwards a lot, to give that humpbacked look as per sketch.

If raise rear of seat up 6" or so to normal level then undertray would have to curve up to meet it resulting in big fat seat unit n just another race rep look. Sorta like 2nd cardboard mockup I did in Z stylee.

Not 100% decided yet between 2 setups tbh.
Fairy nuff.
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Old 04-10-2010, 05:17 PM
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Swear Ive spent a lot more time deciding on seat shape than took to build subframe. Lol. Way it goes sometimes with a build tho.

Decided in the end the seat cowl would stand out like sore thumb compared to rest of bodywork, and would always be just a seat cowl, so threw it in a corner. Lol.

Went back to single curve setup, trimmed right down by an inch or so with a narrower tapered rear edge, and angled down. Practicality not great, but going to make up an angled pillion seat pad that clips on, which restores seat angle to horizontal for occasions its needed. Rest of time I can have the look I want.

Rough mockup on bike. Front seat pad needs cut down by 3” I reckon to match up with bike doodles below. :-






Mocked up on original sketch. Reckon it works. Not going to be for everyone, but Im liking it. Angled back café style with a nice aggressive spike profile. Angular look matches in well with rest. :-



Maybe sharpen up the lower panels a bit to match angles.



Still playing about with it all, but reckon it’s the way forwards. Just working through the creative process with trial n error. Sorry if its boring yer all. Lol.

Can start building up the subframe at back now tho as made a decision. Save up the kids cereal boxes n make some accurate templates n can start chopping n welding some sheet up.
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Old 06-10-2010, 07:29 PM
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Nother hour tonight head scratching n pissin about. Got the sizes of a R1 gel battery off the net other day as know theyre fairly small, so got one of them in mind for the bike once done, due to theyre smallish size and fact I can mount it sideways, etc. Had old dead bandit battery kicking about so had something not far off right sizes to mock up with.

Try as I might I couldn’t for life of me make the battery fit inside the tail shroud no matter which way up I put it. Really want battery in there so don’t have to think about stuffing it elsewhere. Under the tank on the ninjas is a mass of ram air guff. Pressurised airbox n valves/hoses all over the place. Not much spare room for much more than an anorexic ant!

Chopped front seat pad down by around 2” and quickly recovered it again for now. Bit more sensible sizing as my ass aint THAT big. Lol. Don’t like seats you can slide around in back n forth. Looks better too.:-



By cutting front pad down I realized my battery problem was solved as was enough of a gap to slide it down in. Leaning it at slight angle to match tailpiece panel n fits in snugly. Just need to make up a few bits of sheet to support the battery and a strap or something n job done.



Without cardboard on pic below. Also tacked on a bit of box to start making up strong framework so tailpiece can support passengers weight. Messy as hell for now, but no point making it pretty, or welding properly till know its right. :-



Got some 4mm plate scraps, so going to make a plate that comes from back box section back to those 2 threaded bosses on original subframe next to battery, and curve/arch it upwards to match curvature of tailpiece to provide strong support. That`ll be next few evenings work making templates/chopping n smacking shit out of it to try get it to curve. Lol.

Plenty of gaps under there tho for electrical gubbins, plus the gaps under front seat pad too. Should be plenty space for it all to live.:-

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Old 10-10-2010, 05:29 PM
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Try not to spend too much time in garage leaving my wife n family widowed. Was sitting staring braindead at crap on tv this evening, n me fantastic wife says “I thought you`d be in the garage rather than sitting about bored”. Whoosh I was gone. Lol. Another quick ½ hour or so chopped bits, tacked them on. Some of offcuts of box section n thin sheet scraps from bandit side scoopwere quickly formed into a basic battery tray. Rough n ready but once cleaned up n welded properly n drowned in 2K black will look a lot better. Not that anyone can see the bits once together anyway. Lol.





Got some thin rubber matting kicking about I can line battery tray and pillion plate with when goes back together.

Suppose next item to look at it putting on some mounts or a tray in gaps to mount electrics on. After that its just bodywork sheet metal to make up I think. Oh and a quick detatchable plate underneath to hold pillion footrests. Thinking something solid that footrest assemblys bolt to, and then the whole lot bolts to undertray with 1 or 2 bolts for speed when needed.
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Old 13-10-2010, 07:02 PM
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Been airbrushing bandit side scoop last few evenings so not got much done on ninja.

Did a bit tonight tho. Started on an elcetrics tray for under front seat pad. Cereal box mockup/template. :-



Bitta sheet meets grinder n a hammer. Sits in place ok. :-



Threw all the black boxes in randomly to make sure they would fit. Should be alright once tidy things up a bit n mount everything neatly, etc. :-



Seat pad slips back on without any force. Still a gap between seat n electrics. :-



I`ll get mounts made for the tray to bolt onto subframe n holes drilled to mount all the boxes/relays, etc next couple evenings. All the wiring reaches easily though which is cool. Need to lengthen battery leads 8” or so, but not exactly a big job.
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