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  #31  
Old 08-08-2008, 02:39 PM
mattyk mattyk is offline
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just had a little read up on the msva very helpfull as far as i can gather i get a vin from my local dvlsi office ride to the test pass (hopefully) get an mac then get a licsene and reg with a q plate as ill be using a second hand motor..cheers guys been very helpfull.and yep matthewmosse defo my first build on a low budgett so who knows we might be able to drag each other thro lol..so wat are your plans and wat ya buliding ??
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  #32  
Old 08-08-2008, 07:16 PM
matthewmosse matthewmosse is offline
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You just inspired me to follow the advice I've so often been and have given so often and bought the msva manual I'm building a morgan inspired 3 wheeler cos I'm fed up with getting wet in winter and don't want to go and get a car licence I'm hoping to keep the costs down to a stingy 500 or so. Made a bit of a booboo as I started stockpiling bits ages ago and lack recipts for engine etc, a shame as I got a running ntv v twin for 100 and may not be able to use it It's good to know there are first time builders out there, it can be slightly discouraging having to ask loadsa silly questions that the veteran builders probably think are bloody obvious
Ps before anyone draws comparisons to 2cv kit cars No I'm not using 2cv bits or a kit cos they don't float my boat, look okish but real morgans were rear wheel drive and no wishbones at the front.
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  #33  
Old 08-08-2008, 07:31 PM
mattyk mattyk is offline
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i know wat ya mean you feel like a bit of a plank asking the silly questions but i spose if ya dont ask ya dont get..the way i see the more trikes/bikes on the road the better they should harness are imagination and help push us thro lol lol but on a serious note this site has bin a never ending knowledge of realy handy tips and info has given me alot more than i exspected so cheers lads the beers are on me (if we happen to crosspaths at a meet or a drive thro kfc one day yum one day) im sure theyl be photos of me 3 wheeld super slick iron horse (i realy realy hope it comes out that good now coz ill look silly ) lovin your idea are you going to use the back half of the shell of the car or is it goin to be more bike shaped(now that seems like a silly question!!!) im hopefully going to build a frame from the ground up drop a gsx1100 lump in there with a beemer 3 series rear axle/diff still trying to find a knowledgeable person thats done this before as i need to sort a prop shaft out either of the two old ones cut and welded or a spiecalist thing. then im goin ta slap a spanky paint job on it and wheel off down the road spittin flames (got ta admire my entusiasm) so how you goin ta sort ya frame????
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  #34  
Old 08-08-2008, 08:42 PM
matthewmosse matthewmosse is offline
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Basic plan is a scratch built frame shaped like a pair of T's of 1.5 inch 3 mil tube with a basic body made of plywood / battons covered by alloy sheet from a caravan. To get up and running I'll leave any screens off. Power by a v twin honda 600cc motor hung out the front, radiator behind and above. spoked wheels all round and either a bmw or honda rear end off a shaft drive bike. Styling would be like a spitfire with it's wings removed. I'll be welding it all together myself as I'm trained as a coded welder anyway Lots of lathe work as the only car bit is gonna be front brake plates and drums and the steering rack.
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  #35  
Old 08-08-2008, 11:29 PM
Blackjack Blackjack is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattyk View Post
i need to sort a prop shaft out either of the two old ones cut and welded or a spiecalist thing.
You got a lathe and a welder, it's usually doable.

If you look for an engine with a four bolt flange on the back (XJ Yams, GS850 IIRC), it's going to be easier/cheaper than one with a splined output shaft (GT750. Z1000 shaft).

It's all doable, but it isn't always affordable...
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  #36  
Old 08-08-2008, 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by matthewmosse View Post
... real morgans were rear wheel drive and no wishbones at the front.
Sliding pillar.
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  #37  
Old 09-08-2008, 08:16 AM
mattyk mattyk is offline
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dam seems like fun unfortunatley i dont own a lathe spitfires a betiful motor too is it going to be red tho ????? just read blackjacks reply to my beemer idea doesnt seem easy for a firrst build which brings me on to my next question for all you experinced builders out there.id like a bike engined trike but i would like the engine to diff assembley to go as easy as poss does/has anyone got any combinations that will go together easily ????or more easily than using a lathe and chopping 2 shafts to make one ???? shame ya dont live closer matthewmosse coz you seem to be a hole lot of a better welder than me lollol
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  #38  
Old 09-08-2008, 11:11 AM
matthewmosse matthewmosse is offline
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Originally Posted by Blackjack View Post
Sliding pillar.
too tecky for my limited expirience, skills and resources though, so I'm copying/ adapting the idea of short swing arms on my sidecar for a closer to authentic (than kits) but cheaper (hopefully) system using a twinshock unit behind each upright. Looks ok from most angles when mocked up and a wide range of shockers to choose from if the ones I have end up too hard/soft etc, leaves a lot of room for modifying later too
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  #39  
Old 09-08-2008, 11:23 AM
matthewmosse matthewmosse is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattyk View Post
dam seems like fun unfortunatley i dont own a lathe spitfires a betiful motor too is it going to be red tho ????? just read blackjacks reply to my beemer idea doesnt seem easy for a firrst build which brings me on to my next question for all you experinced builders out there.id like a bike engined trike but i would like the engine to diff assembley to go as easy as poss does/has anyone got any combinations that will go together easily ????or more easily than using a lathe and chopping 2 shafts to make one ???? shame ya dont live closer matthewmosse coz you seem to be a hole lot of a better welder than me lollol
I spent a year on a blacksmithing course in Hereford, lots of welding practice. Best thing for learning is the destructive testing of your work, you know the weld is good if it don't break before the unwelded metal gives up. I read lots of trike torques too though, cos bing able to weld is only one bit of it. Desighning against stress fractures and metal fatiuge is the real trick. I'd get a look at the engine and diff input/output before stressing too much on driveshaft.
Coulor for the 3 wheeler I'm building, feck knows? matt black hides a world of sins if it looks rough. If it's tidy british racing green? I won't be opting for a pricy paint job anyways, my bikes all see thier shrare of snow and salt and I'm too lazy to clean the bike each time
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  #40  
Old 09-08-2008, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattyk View Post
dam seems like fun unfortunatley i dont own a lathe spitfires a betiful motor too is it going to be red tho ????? just read blackjacks reply to my beemer idea doesnt seem easy for a firrst build which brings me on to my next question for all you experinced builders out there.id like a bike engined trike but i would like the engine to diff assembley to go as easy as poss does/has anyone got any combinations that will go together easily ????or more easily than using a lathe and chopping 2 shafts to make one ???? shame ya dont live closer matthewmosse coz you seem to be a hole lot of a better welder than me lollol

I can adapt the bits on lathe at work if you wanna post them up to me (along with drawing of what you need)
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  #41  
Old 09-08-2008, 04:19 PM
Zephyr Zephyr is offline
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If your means , ability and equipment are as 'fragile' as you seem to indicate, then beware what you are taking on, and remember its going on the road! and this advise is from an experienced buider of mechanical "horses", 2,3,and 4! cheers for now, Morrag
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  #42  
Old 09-08-2008, 08:16 PM
mattyk mattyk is offline
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cheers for the advice morrag equiptment isnt to bad me thinks(bar a lathe) means are ok, and my ability maybe isnt as fragile as ya think just the knowledge but advice taken gracefully !! id always ask for help before gettin on a 2,3,4 "horse" that i didnt think was road worthy i dont like gravel rash lol
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  #43  
Old 09-08-2008, 08:19 PM
mattyk mattyk is offline
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will keep that in mind v8 trike realy appreciate the helpfullnes as i havnt got a lathe not all would have offered. do you have any pics of ya trike ( im asuming its a v8 by ya name?)
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  #44  
Old 10-08-2008, 11:18 AM
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No probs, trike is a V6, (working my way up to a V8 )

http://www.100-biker.co.uk/forums/sh...ad.php?t=35908
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  #45  
Old 19-08-2008, 09:11 AM
Irrepairable Irrepairable is offline
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any 4 cylinder jap motor will work in a trike to run a shaft from , even a chain drive , u r not limited to shaft output engines to make a shaft drive trike from , rotate a standard chain driven engine thru 90 degrees laterally , so the splined output the sprocket fits too , faces to the rear of potential trike , fit a sprocket , and drill it to fit a UJ onto , bolt the UJ to the sprocket or the millions of other ways this cud be done , and the world of engine choices opens right up , and the world then , is errm " ur oyster " hehehe


zac ..
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  #46  
Old 19-08-2008, 03:17 PM
mattyk mattyk is offline
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cheers zac thats a whole new insight seems easy enough (in my head of corse)
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  #47  
Old 23-08-2008, 10:12 AM
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Hmmnn yea great love to see you sort out the final drve gearing on that one
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  #48  
Old 25-08-2008, 12:12 PM
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someone here may be able to help regarding gearing.

http://www.becowners.co.uk/
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  #49  
Old 26-08-2008, 07:58 AM
matthewmosse matthewmosse is offline
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final drive gearing for that one, not too bad in theory, first find out the original sproketts no of teeth front and rear plus the rear wheel diameter. many diff's or bevel drives tell you the reduction ratio on them or ask around. match the numbers up, eg front sprockett 11 teeth, rear 34 teeth is same as 11/34 rear diff ratio? so using same wheel size would keep same power delivery. Smaller diameter wheel/ tyre combo = more torqe better acceleration but lower top speed and higher revs for same crusing speed. I think that should work
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  #50  
Old 26-08-2008, 10:44 AM
Blackjack Blackjack is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matthewmosse View Post
final drive gearing for that one, not too bad in theory, first find out the original sproketts no of teeth front and rear plus the rear wheel diameter. many diff's or bevel drives tell you the reduction ratio on them or ask around. match the numbers up, eg front sprockett 11 teeth, rear 34 teeth is same as 11/34 rear diff ratio? so using same wheel size would keep same power delivery. Smaller diameter wheel/ tyre combo = more torqe better acceleration but lower top speed and higher revs for same crusing speed. I think that should work
Not really.

11/34 means a 3.09/1 diff.

But all that means is that the ratio is one revolution of the rear wheel for 3.09 turns of the output shaft. The gearing is how far the thing travels along the road for one turn of the output shaft.

Change the wheel size you change the gearing. smaller diameter wheels will mean you need a higher ratio to achieve the same gearing.

For instance, the difference in the rolling circumference of a standard GT750 Kawasaki wheel and a 205/40 17 car wheel and tyre is the Kawi wheel travels 80" and the car wheel 73 1/2" which is practically 10%.
Now if the trike is significantly heavier than the bike thats probably OK, and the aerodynamics of it would probably make it OK even if the trike wasn't much heavier.

So as it happens, that should work with a diff of around the same ratio as the Kawi final bevel which is 3.7/1.

In the case of using a chain drive engine turned sideways, you'd be looking at a 3.09/1 diff using your figures for the chain drive and mine for the wheels and tyres.

Which is nice to know, but now you need to find a diff.....
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