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  #31  
Old 16-08-2006, 09:08 AM
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problem being it's a magnisum case and not sure if the weld will hold or make it brittle
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  #32  
Old 16-08-2006, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Astroid
problem being it's a magnisum case and not sure if the weld will hold or make it brittle
ahh, dunno bout that.
e-bay or partfinder then......
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  #33  
Old 16-08-2006, 09:31 AM
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have a look at e-bay item no. 330018173090.
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  #34  
Old 16-08-2006, 12:56 PM
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I am enjoying this thread.,
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  #35  
Old 16-08-2006, 01:38 PM
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I believe Yambabe may have a stash for an XT - might be worth dropping her a line?
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  #36  
Old 16-08-2006, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harpo
sorry to sound a like a total noob, but what is the difference between a hard tail and soft tail bike?
Should just clarify that a softail is designed to resemble a hardtail but has a monoshock or air suspension hidden underneath. What looks like the hardtail is actually acting as a swinging arm.

Early Harley versions had it under the seat but for more radical riding position nowadays a lot of customs have the shock laying down parrallel to the ground along the lower frame members.
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  #37  
Old 16-08-2006, 02:58 PM
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I was very interested in the tensioner question. Is it easier to manage with having an adjustable guide (like the skateboard wheel) or leaving room to move the whell back and forth?
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  #38  
Old 16-08-2006, 03:18 PM
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If the wheelbase is extreme you'd probably need to have a jockey wheel tensioner system in there anyway to stop it thrashing about. Seems an elegant solution to combine uses.

But it makes it essential that the rear axle alignment is machined precisely, as you'll have no means to adjust the line of the wheel it onces it's done. The slot-and slider arrangement does give you a bit of flexibility there.
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  #39  
Old 16-08-2006, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slob
I was very interested in the tensioner question. Is it easier to manage with having an adjustable guide (like the skateboard wheel) or leaving room to move the whell back and forth?
its loads easier to fix the wheel and use a jocky wheel for chain tension, none of that pesky cutting out of axle plates etc, but as shaun says, you have to be accurate with the positioning....
i use an extra long spindle supported by scissor-jacks at both ends, adjust them so a spirit level shows vertical on the disc face, drop a plumb line from the headstock, and using long straight edges, align the wheel(s).
its not as critical as you would think, i did hear tell that the factory tolerance on honda sports bikes in the late 80's for wheel alignment was +/-40mm(!!!), and my bike handled fine with the car tyre on the back, and every time i leant it over cornering it threw the wheel alignment out by a good 50mm.....
although abviously its better to get it right....
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