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  #1  
Old 05-02-2016, 12:44 PM
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Default Workshop tips tricks and handy hints

OK i'll admit it i'm a bit bored but i noticed we could do with a thread like this

Let me start, handy hint's

1. Cover the bike your working on. ( i use moving blanket's)

2. Have a washing up bowl near the bike put all tools used for the job in the bowl not on the garage floor, this way you know where every tool you need to finish the job is. (great tip this one no more hunting for the lost spanner)

3. Do one job at a time. (no more time spent trying to figure out where that bolt fits, your working on the clutch that bolt's from the starter)

4. look on youtube someone on there may have filmed the job your about to do

5. Most job's get easier if you sit back and think about them before starting.

There you go a few to start you off,

Hope this help's Dai
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Last edited by wiskers; 06-02-2016 at 11:12 AM. Reason: Thanks Friar Tuck for sticky
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Old 05-02-2016, 06:08 PM
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When frustrated remove all heavy tools from easy reach, fuel tanks don't respond well to hammers!!!
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Old 06-02-2016, 06:59 AM
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Stickied for you Wiskers!
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Old 06-02-2016, 08:49 AM
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Default Torx 27

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Originally Posted by Friar Tuck View Post
Stickied for you Wiskers!
Thank you very much sir

I don't want to make this a wiskers thread let's have some input from you guy's

When working on bike's with torx fittings make sure you have a torx 27 this is the size used the most on bikes it's also the size not included with most torx sets, sure most of the time you will get away with a torx 25 but the fits not perfect and that ladies and gentlemen is why the screws or the torx bit get mangled
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Last edited by wiskers; 06-02-2016 at 11:08 AM. Reason: Adding heading
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Old 06-02-2016, 08:56 AM
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have a kettle with required brewing tackle and music in there.
if things start to go tits up brew up and take two songs to chill... works foe me.




oh and check with school care takers for filing cabinets, old cuoboards,deaks ect that may be getting binned. no good for them. but good enough for you.
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Old 06-02-2016, 11:03 AM
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Default Engine casing screws

Engine casing screws can often be a problem

This is where having a set of strike through screwdrivers comes in handy

A few little taps with a small hammer ( I'm thinking toffee hammer here) will often free up the corrosion, if not stop don't reach for the big hammer were dealing with fairly fine threads here, try dipping the screwdriver in valve grinding paste then give it a tap into the screw then the screwdriver won't slip and mangle the screw, if all else fails reach for the impact gun, or the drill if you reach for the drill drill a small hole centre to the screw, you can then use either a easy out or my favourite a centre punch that has been shown the grinder you want a flat on both sides of the top and a triangle ground on the other end,use this by hammering into the screws and then turn with a open ended spanner
When you have all the screws lose take a bit of cardboard and push the screws through in order ( usually i mark the screw at the furthest forward point of the motor and work round clockways) this way you don't risk putting a long screw into a shallow hole and breaking a lump of engine casing off ( i did have a piece of wood drilled for this very job but once I knocked it off the bench and mixed up the screws it went on the fire ) in over 40years of working on engines I still have found nothing better than cardboard for the job
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Old 08-02-2016, 01:53 PM
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Default Make sure the Mrs is out for this one

The dishwasher will do a surprisingly good job on stainless exhaust cans or any other stainless items
(but be careful with other metals) put them on a hot wash with normal dishwasher tablets or powder

For smaller things like nuts and bolts put them between two metal sieves tied securely

but like I said in the heading make sure your Mrs is out for a few hours before doing this, after using the dishwasher for your parts do another wash with the machine empty and then make sure you put the settings back to where they were before you started

Obviously I don't do this and have absolutely no idea why the dishwasher sometimes smells of oil
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Last edited by wiskers; 08-02-2016 at 02:55 PM. Reason: Bit about other metals
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Old 08-02-2016, 05:43 PM
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Default Keeping other half sweet

When ever you are with the other half in one of the budget bargain type stores

Always take her down the tool section point out the spanner set they're selling for a quid and say look at that i paid 1-50 for mine

Your other half won't be able to tell the difference between that set and your snap on set

Don't forget to pick up some microfiber t towels and cloths while you're there

Would I do a thing like that? I just hope that when I'm dead and gone my Ann doesn't sell my tools for what she thinks they cost
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Old 08-02-2016, 10:13 PM
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Good tip for getting chain lube/oil spray off your back wheel. Use plain old Pledge or similar furniture polish. Lifts it right off. Use the same rag to clean the oily finger prints off before you put it back under the sink
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Old 09-02-2016, 07:09 AM
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Accepted best practice for sump plugs is a new copper washer every time.

But I don't. I use PTFE tape on the threads this gives a good seal. Also it acts like a nyloc as it prevents the plug coming loose.

My experience doing breakdowns causes me to believe loosing a sump plug to be a bad thing and not just because of the mess.
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Old 09-02-2016, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harry View Post
Accepted best practice for sump plugs is a new copper washer every time.

But I don't. I use PTFE tape on the threads this gives a good seal. Also it acts like a nyloc as it prevents the plug coming loose.

My experience doing breakdowns causes me to believe loosing a sump plug to be a bad thing and not just because of the mess.
Just bought 10 rolls on amazon prime 2.53 with free next day delivery
Arriving today
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Last edited by wiskers; 09-02-2016 at 08:44 AM.
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Old 11-02-2016, 11:18 AM
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Default Instant gasket life saver or engine killer?

What I'm talking about here is the stuff you buy of the shelf in most motor factors

For some jobs you can use this it's pretty good for differential covers, pre unit gearboxes, and also for fixing bolt covers in place, to be honest i can't think of anywhere else to use it
Edit yes I can it works for filling wiring holes in the back mudguard keeping crap and water out of your electrics under the seat

If you use it on engine casing's remember the same amount squeezes (spelin ) out on the inside as the outside and over time this can come adrift then find it's way into your oil ways causing all sorts of problems

The stuff I use is made by wurth it's oil soluble and silver in colour I have used this for years and never had any problems it's the best thing I have found for Japanese crank case joints

When running my old BSA'S i found hematite gold this seemed to work ok but i didn't like the way it didn't set

The oil soluble stuff is also sold by Suzuki and Yamaha dealers they may have to order it for you but they should be able to get it probably other manufacturers sell it too

Hope this helps Dai
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Last edited by wiskers; 11-02-2016 at 12:27 PM. Reason: Putting question mark in the heading
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Old 12-02-2016, 05:44 AM
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Tesco All purpose kitchen cleaner is a good replacement for Gunk!
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Old 12-02-2016, 10:07 PM
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Default Get a decent torch or head torch

Makes life much easier

I bought two snap on, one's for under 20 and use them most times i'm in the garage
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Old 19-02-2016, 11:00 AM
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Default Callipers

When you remove the callipers for any reason don't let them hang on the hydraulic line's

I stretch a bungy cord then place this between the pads and hang the callipers from the bungy

Doing it this way keeps the pads pushed back for easy refitting over the disc's
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Old 19-02-2016, 07:18 PM
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Rubber lubrication spray (Silicone)

Very handy for getting carbs back on old inlet rubbers. (Use only a little)
Best of all use the spray on the rear wheel hub cush drive rubbers when putting them back in.
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Old 19-02-2016, 07:21 PM
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Thats a good tip about the bolt layout when removing them from the bike and pushing them through a piece of card.
I can never find a piece of card in the garage so in the past I've used an old car wash sponge and pushed them into that.
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Old 19-02-2016, 07:24 PM
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Buying used parts online.

Check the bike manufacturers prices for new OE parts because they are often a damned sight cheaper than used parts. Don't get ripped off, check the OE first.
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Old 04-03-2016, 06:30 AM
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Rubber lubrication spray (Silicone)

Very handy for rubbers when putting them back in.
Ooerr Missus!
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Old 04-03-2016, 09:35 PM
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Lmho !!!
I was waiting!!
Fnarrr.....
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  #21  
Old 21-02-2016, 12:52 AM
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Default Fork caps

This one took me year's to learn, they can be awkward buggers we all know that

The way I now do them is, before I put the springs in i put the cap onto the tube and mark both with a sharpie marker just where the threads start to catch

Then when the spring is in you line up the marks press down then only turn when the faces meet a little turn back then forward they should catch easily

I found this method far easier than turning and pushing at the same time

Mark both tube and cap

Easier done than writing how to do it this one!

While on the subject of fork caps when undoing them loosen off the top yoke pinch bolt's, often it's the pressure from these that make the caps difficult to undo
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Last edited by wiskers; 21-02-2016 at 01:07 PM. Reason: Added bit about turn back then forward
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Old 22-02-2016, 05:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wiskers View Post
This one took me year's to learn, they can be awkward buggers we all know that

The way I now do them is, before I put the springs in i put the cap onto the tube and mark both with a sharpie marker just where the threads start to catch

Then when the spring is in you line up the marks press down then only turn when the faces meet a little turn back then forward they should catch easily

I found this method far easier than turning and pushing at the same time

Mark both tube and cap

Easier done than writing how to do it this one!

While on the subject of fork caps when undoing them loosen off the top yoke pinch bolt's, often it's the pressure from these that make the caps difficult to undo
Remember to duck as springs eject skywards like a Nasa rocket heading to the moon! oh sorry that refers to clutch springs...
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Old 22-02-2016, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
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Remember to duck as springs eject skywards like a Nasa rocket heading to the moon! oh sorry that refers to clutch springs...
Your right it's fork caps that launch skywards

When undoing these I put on a pair of grippy gloves so i can turn the socket by hand, once loose enough to turn by hand I will cover everything with a towel

Clutch springs ah now you must be talking about brit stuff here

What they used to do was launch horizontally hit you in the nuts then bounce down the road until they found a drain to fall down.

All of the jap clutches I have worked on the tension comes off before the bolt's come loose

Ah the joy of British bike clutch centre nuts coming undone every few hundred miles then trying to fix it at the side of the road then getting hit in the nuts then loosing the nuts down the drain
Then the feeling of elation when you discovered lok tite and realised how much better it was than the old tab washers
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Old 22-02-2016, 09:14 PM
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Quote:
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Your right it's fork caps
Otherwise known as ping-fukits.
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Old 23-02-2016, 10:02 AM
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The battery on me car went futt click clickclickclickclickclick

So I bought a new one and struggled to get the old one out from Uncle Henry's death like grip.

Then just for a change I struggled to fit the new one. The battery is retained by a strap over the top of it which is held down by two nuts onto studs. The gaps of course between the battery and the rest of the car are too small for the hand of man to enter.

So to remove the nuts we put a blob of grease in the socket and can then lift the nuts out with the socket. The alternative is of course magnets if the nuts are mild steel or the little flexible grabber etc.

However putting the nuts back on can be a bigger problem, the method I chose was to slip the nut onto a long thin scewdriver. Then while holding the nut with the same hand that holds the screwdriver place the tip of the screwdriver on the top of the stud, let the nut fall down the screwdriver blade and start it by turning it with the one finger that can reach it.

sometimes you can use the socket and grease method to replace the nut but as I needed a deep socket, due to the length of the stud, I would need to put several nuts in the socket in order to press the nut on to the top of the stud.
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Old 08-03-2016, 01:31 PM
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Default Nail polish in my tool box

No joking I use this stuff a lot

If I haven't got a torque setting or it's over the 80 ft lb that my torque wrench get's up too, or if I feel that the torque settings given are not right for the job i'm doing
I put two spots of nail polish to one on the fitting one on what ever the fittings going into if the marks still line up after a week or so i just pick them off with a finger nail if not i will undo the fitting a touch line it all up again then go a bit tighter

Another job I use nail polish for is when fitting timing belts two marks on the top pulley/ cog and also on the belt three on the bottom pulley/cog and also on the belt leave one tooth between the marks then one mark on other pulley's/cogs and on the belt let it dry before removing the belt, once the belt is off mark the new belt in the same places this way you know you have the new belt fitted correctly, hold the belt in place with small bulldog type clips until you have the tensioner back on
Unless it's a big Vauxhall or Saab then get someone else to do it for you

Really hope this makes sense Dai
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Last edited by wiskers; 08-03-2016 at 01:36 PM.
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Old 13-03-2016, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wiskers View Post
No joking I use this stuff a lot

If I haven't got a torque setting or it's over the 80 ft lb that my torque wrench get's up too, or if I feel that the torque settings given are not right for the job i'm doing
I put two spots of nail polish to one on the fitting one on what ever the fittings going into if the marks still line up after a week or so i just pick them off with a finger nail if not i will undo the fitting a touch line it all up again then go a bit tighter

Another job I use nail polish for is when fitting timing belts two marks on the top pulley/ cog and also on the belt three on the bottom pulley/cog and also on the belt leave one tooth between the marks then one mark on other pulley's/cogs and on the belt let it dry before removing the belt, once the belt is off mark the new belt in the same places this way you know you have the new belt fitted correctly, hold the belt in place with small bulldog type clips until you have the tensioner back on
Unless it's a big Vauxhall or Saab then get someone else to do it for you

Really hope this makes sense Dai
An old trick we used on the AA with nail varnish. When a distributor cap or ignition coil suffered from "tracking" This is caused by a spark passing through dirt and oil on the plastic and burning it to form carbon. We would scrape the carbon out of the groove it made for itself and then coat it with nail varnish which is a good insulator.

Rarely needed on modern vehicles but still handy for any older vehicles.


For marking things I tend to use a tipex pen. It shows up really well on dark surfaces.
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Old 13-03-2016, 08:17 PM
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When I ran old British stuff I got fed up changing gearbox sprockets and then spending ages setting up the clutch.

(For those not in the know many old Brits the gearbox sprocket lived behind the clutch.)

I found I could make the sprocket last much longer by buying two chains when I fitted new sprockets (Always both together) There was none of the modern O ring chains about so they needed proper maintenance. I washed them in petrol and then put them in linklife, this is a pan of chain grease that you melted on the cooker if the wife was out or on a camp stove if she was in.

One chain goes on the bike and the other is wrapped in an oily cloth and stored safely. Every six weeks or so I would swap them over, now this is the clever bit, as the front sprocket is so inaccesible, turn the back wheel till the joining link is on the rear sprocket. Split the chain and join the new chain to the old one. Pull the old chain off and it pulls the new one on.

Clean and regrease the old chain and store as before.

The sprockets only wear out as the chain does so like this they last far longer and swapping them is easy this way.
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Old 14-03-2016, 06:25 AM
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Keep a decent First Aid kit to hand. And if you really do an nasty injury a dab ofsuper glue works wonders while you rush to A and E! My mate decided that cutting carpet with a Stanley knife was a good idea until he got behind the knife and slipped slicing well into his thumb the only thing I could think of at the time was a blob of superglue on the wound and wrap it in a tea towel, and then drive him to the Hospital. The Docs weren't happy about the superglue but it saved his thumb apparently!
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Old 20-03-2016, 11:18 AM
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Default Handy bit of kit

A few years ago i bought this set along with the expansion set
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Irwin-Bolt-G...n+bolt+remover
These have proved themselves over and over they really do work
Mostly they have been used for locking wheel nuts where the owner has lost the key, most locking wheel nuts will need the expansion set, i also bought the screw removing set these have again proved themselves many times over removing studs, nuts, bolts and cap head screws with ease
Looking on eBay last night i noticed the same thing far cheaper probably made in China but i would imagine they will still do the same job

Edit. You will need to replace the fitting with new when you use these but if they're fucked enough to use these they need replacing anyway
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Last edited by wiskers; 20-03-2016 at 08:47 PM. Reason: The bit that says Edit
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