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-   -   Tuning Guide and Handy Links (http://www.100-biker.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36748)

Grav 19-09-2008 06:15 PM

Tuning Guide and Handy Links
 
Here's a link that Odie found that gives some helpful advice on tuning.

http://www.mikuni.com/fs-tuning_guide.html

odie 19-09-2008 06:18 PM

I have more if you want them.

Grav 19-09-2008 06:22 PM

Yes please, Odie.:)

odie 19-09-2008 06:55 PM

Handy link's
 
Here are some handy links that might be able to help some-one fix their bike, trike, car.

Workshop manual's:

http://servicemanual.blogspot.com/20...k2-petrol.html
http://pdftown.com/Motorcycle-PDF-eBook-Category.html
http://blackbears.ru/index_en.php
http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp
http://www.thesparesnetwork.co.uk/

Electrical:

http://www.btinternet.com/~jhpart/bkwirec.htm
http://www.btinternet.com/~jhpart/bkns125a.htm
http://www.djheath.net/volkszone/vw_...ng_diagram.htm
http://www.electrosport.com/technica...ng-diagram.pdf

Carb's:

http://www.mikuni.com/fs-tuning_guide.html

Trike Frame's:

http://www.btinternet.com/~jhpart/bktrikep.htm

Bits and bob's:

http://www.dansmc.com/indexindex.htm

Air cooled VW
http://www.vw-resource.com/procedures.html

If any-one has any more please post them.
Odie

odie 19-09-2008 07:28 PM

Some car timing marks:

http://www.romac.com.au/pdf/Factory%...ks%20Books.pdf

Sir Ewok 19-09-2008 11:00 PM

Have bookmarked the VW one as I have to rewire the trike next year. I converted from generator to alternator but rest is the same. I wondered where the wires were? Then I sussed about selecting the part that I wanted, which is the genius of the thing. You don't have a couple of dozen wires together, just the charging circuit or indicators etc.

Thanx:thumbu:

odie 20-09-2008 04:01 AM

Drew posted this:
http://www.650motorcycles.com/points.html
popped it in here for future refence:thumbu:

odie 20-09-2008 04:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sir Ewok (Post 537532)
Have bookmarked the VW one as I have to rewire the trike next year. I converted from generator to alternator but rest is the same. I wondered where the wires were? Then I sussed about selecting the part that I wanted, which is the genius of the thing. You don't have a couple of dozen wires together, just the charging circuit or indicators etc.

Thanx:thumbu:

Good aint it, think it came from here, but not sure.
Glad it is of some use:thumbu:

odie 22-09-2008 09:14 PM

I have used these on my own machines, its up to you, remember though its always better to be slightly rich.
Rich mixture fouls plugs :(, weak mixtures f uck engines :mad:!


Setting up your carbs

Follow steps in order....First, dial in:
1. Top end (full throttle / 7.5k to redline - Best Main Jet be selected before starting step 2!
Select Best Main Jet
To get the best, most even top end power (full throttle/after 7500 rpm), select the main jet that produces the highest top speed / pulls hardest at high rpm.
If the bike pulls harder at high rpm when cold and less hard when fully warmed up, the main jet is too large. Install a smaller main jet and retest until you find the main jet that pulls the hardest at high rpm when fully warmed up. This must be done first - before moving on to the other tuning ranges.
If the bike doesn't pull well at high rpm when cold and gets only slightly better when fully warmed up, the main jet is too small.
In order to properly tune the midrange and low rpm carburetion, THE MAIN JET MUST FIRST BE PROPERLY SELECTED after 10 to 15 minutes of hard use!
Do not pay too much attention to the low-end richness when you are changing main jets - you still need to be using the main jets that produce the best power at high rpm. You will deal with the low-end / cruise later - after step 2.
2. Midrange (full throttle /5k-7k)
Select best needle clip position
To get the best power at full throttle / 5k-7k rpm, after you have already selected the best main jet,
If the engine pulls better on a full throttle roll-on starting at <3k, when cool but soft when at full operating temperature, it is too rich in the midrange and the needle should be lowered.
If the engine pulls better when fully warmed up but still not great between 5k-7k, try raising the needle to richen 5k-7k.
If the engine pulls equally well between 5k-7k when cooler as compared to fully warmed up, the needle height is probably properly set.
Do not pay too much attention to the low-end richness when you are changing needle clip positions - you still need to be using the clip position that produces the best full throttle / 5k-7k power in conjunction with the main jets that produce the best power at high rpm. You will deal with the low-end / cruise next.
3. Low end (full throttle / 2k-3k)
Float height (AKA fuel level & how to..)
To get best low-end power, set float height (fuel level) so that the engine will accept full throttle, without missing or stumbling, in 2nd gear from 2.5k to 3k rpm at minimum.
Float heights, unless otherwise specified in the installation guide, are measured from the "gasket surface" of the carb body to the highest part of the top of the float - with the float tang touching but not compressing the float valve spring.
If the engine has a "wet" rhythmic, soggy area at full throttle / 3k-4k rpm, that gets worse as the engine heats up, lower the fuel level by resetting the float height 1mm greater (if the original was 13mm - go to 14mm). This will lower the fuel level, making full throttle / 2k-3k rpm leaner.
If the engine is "dry" and flat between 2k to 3k rpm, raise the fuel level.
Example: change float height from 15mm to 14mm to richen up that area.
REMEMBER, since the main jet WILL affect low speed operation, the MAIN JET has to be within 1 or 2 sizes of correct before final float setting.
Warning: If the engine is left with the fuel level too high,, the engine may foul plugs on the street and will be "soft" and boggy at part throttle operation. Adjust Floats to raise/ lower the Fuel Level.
Base settings are usually given if a particular application has a history of fuel level criticalness. The Fuel level height in the float bowl affects full throttle/low rpm and, also, richness or leanness at cruise/low rpm.
Reference: a bike that runs cleanly at small throttle openings when cold, but starts to show signs of richness as it heats up to full operating temperature, will usually be leaned out enough to be correct if the fuel level is LOWERED 1mm. Check out and RESET all: Suzuki (all), Yamaha (all) and Kawasaki (if low speed problems occur). Needless to say, FUEL LEVEL IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT!!!
If there are low-end richness problems, even after lowering the fuel level much more than 1.5mm from our initial settings, also check for needle wear and needle jet (part of the emulsion tube). See Worn Needle and Worn Needle Jet diagram. It is VERY common for the brass needle jets (in the top of the "emulsion tube") in 36mm, 38mm and 40mm Mikuni CV carbs to wear out in as little as 5,000 miles. Check them for "oblong" wear - the needle jet orifice starts out round! Factory Pro produces stock replacement needle jets / emulsion tubes for 36mm and 38mm Mikuni carbs.
4. Idle and low rpm cruise
Fuel Screw setting (AKA mixture screws)
There is usually a machined brass or aluminum cap over the fuel screws on all but newer Honda. It's about the diameter of a pencil. Cap removal details. Newer Honda carbs use a special "D" shaped driver, usually supplied in the carb recal kit.
Set for smoothest idle and 2nd gear, 4k rpm, steady state cruise operation. Set mixture screws at recommended settings, as a starting point. For smoothest idle, 2nd gear 4000 rpm steady state cruise , and 1/8 throttle high rpm operation.
Pilot fuel mixture screw settings, float level AND pilot jet size are the primary sources of mixture delivery during 4000 rpm steady state cruise operation.
If lean surging is encountered, richen mixture screws (turn out) in 1/2 turn increments. Alternative pilot jets are supplied when normally required.
Pilot fuel mixture screw settings, float level and pilot jet size also affect high-rpm, 0 to 1/8 throttle maneuvers. Too lean, will cause surging problems when the engine is operated at high rpm at small throttle openings! Opening the mixture screws and/or increasing pilot jet size will usually cure the problem.
NOTE: A rich problem gets worse as the engine heats up.
If the throttle is lightly "blipped" at idle, and the rpm drops below the set idle speed, then rises up to the set idle speed, the low speed mixture screws are probably set too rich: try 1/2 turn in, to lean the idle mixture.
NOTE: A lean problem gets better as the engine heats up.
If the throttle is lightly "blipped" at idle, and the rpm "hangs up" before dropping to the set idle speed, and there are no intake leaks and the idle speed is set at less than 1000 rpm, the mixture screws are probably too lean: try 1/2 turn out, to richen mixture. Be sure there are no intake leaks and the idle speed is set at less than 1000 rpm

setting up your mixtures

EASY TEST to set up your mixture screws.

If at 4,000rpm; (steady state riding)
lean surging happens you need to richen the mixture (going outward 1/4 turn at a time.

A rich problem gets worse as the bike heats, lean gets better as the bike heats up.

Now to do the test: Here’s how it works (and it will get you dead spot on!)

Set your idle below 1,000 (6-700rpm works good)
1) Blip the throttle quick, lightly. If the idles rises up then drops below the set point you selected (6-700), you are too RICH, you need to go IN with your mixture screws 1/2 turn at a time.

2) If you blip the throttle and the needle rises, but then hangs for a second before dropping to the perfect set point of 6-700rpm you are too LEAN, you need more fuel, go OUT 1/2 turn at at a time with your mixture screws.

Now use your head. If you turn the mixture screws 1/2 turn one-way or the other and the problem goes back and forth from lean to rich, you need to turn less.......try 1/4 turn.

Once done, you should be able to set your idle back to normal, give a blip and have it rise fast, and drop fast right to the perfect spot. Now your mixture screws are set

If you run into problems and it just won't work. Make sure you have not intake leaks, bad exhaust leaks. Intake leaks (carbs to motor) cause the most frustration.

Grav 26-03-2009 11:44 AM

Another handy link for workshop manuals courtesy of Mr Johnr.

http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp

:)

Grav 26-03-2009 11:50 AM

A handy link for tools etc. courtesy of the nice bloke from the MSVA.

http://www.venhill.co.uk/Tools/ENGINE_TOOLS

Grav 11-07-2009 11:46 AM

Here's a series of videos on Mig Welding for the budding fabricators out there.

http://www.ehow.com/videos-on_491_mig-weld.html

Cheers for the find, Chazz.

Grav 07-11-2009 08:03 PM

Here is a link to a site providing details of any recalls from the bike manufacturers that goes back many years.

http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/mo...lls/index.html

Cheers to 4_Stroke for the link. :)

Grav 10-11-2009 01:58 PM

Here is a link to the VOSA pages that deal with vehicle recalls.

http://www.vosa.gov.uk/vosa/apps/recalls/default.asp

Thanks to 4_Stroke again.

carzfreak123 12-02-2010 01:02 PM

Free Car Owner Manuals Online - My Service Manual Websites
 
I know I am new here, but I want to post a link to my collection of Free Car Manuals. I have compiled a list of websites and Free Manuals for anyone who is sick of paying for them, or who just needs them. My email is on the site if anyone knows of any other good places where you can download Car and Motorcycle Manuals for Free. Models and Makes Include -

Alfa Romeo Manuals, Audi Manuals, BMW Manuals, Cadillac Manuals, Chevrolet Manuals, Chrysler Manuals, Corvette Manuals, Daewoo Manuals, Daihatsu Manuals, Datsun Manuals, Dodge Manuals, Ferrari Manuals, Fiat Manuals, Ford Manuals, Honda Manuals, Hyundai Manuals, Infiniti Manuals, Isuzu Manuals, Jaguar Manuals, Jeep Manuals, Land Rover Manuals, Lexus Manuals, Lincoln Manuals, Mazda Manuals, Mercedes Manuals, Mitsubishi Manuals, Mustang Manuals, Nissan Manuals, Opel Manuals, Peugeot Manuals, Pontiac Manuals, Porsche Manuals, Range Rover Manuals, Renault Manuals, Repair Manuals, Subaru Manuals, Suzuki Manuals, Toyota Manuals, Vauxhall Manuals, Volkswagen Manuals, Volvo Manuals.

I stress the word FREE. I am no pro, nor will I be giving lists. It is just a small book with information on where to download virtually any Motor Manuals.

WEBSITE - http://free-car-manuals.blogspot.com

paulpeter 03-03-2010 06:25 AM

Hi Grav & odie ,
I had seen those link and i got some interesting information from them so i would like to thank you for the guide...:thumbu:

odie 06-03-2010 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by carzfreak123 (Post 581936)
I stress the word FREE. I am no pro, nor will I be giving lists. It is just a small book with information on where to download virtually any Motor Manuals.

WEBSITE - http://free-car-manuals.blogspot.com

they seem to want to charge you or are american car manuals!

wodda 06-03-2010 08:37 PM

I've got another one. You have to register but there doesnt seem to be a problem. If it gives me grief in the future I'll let you know. http://www.ronincycleparts.com

Grav 06-04-2010 11:51 AM

Here's Blackjacks website with lots of great tips and information for those who want to build a custom bike.

http://www.thefont.info/

Grav 17-04-2010 10:54 AM

Here's a site found by Tony that gives lots of good info on Sprockets and fitments.

http://www.jtsprockets.com/40.0.html?&L=0

Grav 12-01-2011 01:38 PM

Here's a link to an a splendid supplier of stainless steel bends and other exhaust components found by Tony.

http://www.ojzengineering.co.uk/page.php?page=100

kidhaf 09-04-2011 09:10 PM

Shed load of manuals
 
A shed load of on line manuals dont be put off by the header in foreign


http://www.manualedereparatie.info/en.html

Grav 25-05-2011 07:38 PM

Here's a handy site for checking headrace bearing sizes courtesy of mr grumpy :)

http://www.allballsracing.com/index.php/forkconvertion

Grav 03-07-2011 06:40 PM

A bearings supplier courtesy of Harris. :)

http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/

wiskers 02-02-2013 09:42 PM

Just been shown this one could be handy

http://www.tjreconstruction.co.uk/customwelding.htm


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