View Full Version : Trike Front End

27-09-2013, 03:49 PM
Please could someone tell me where I have Gone Wrong With My Forks Because When I put My Front Brake On The Forks Try To Bend Backward Towards The Frame, they Don't Go Down To Compress The Springs. It Works Fine when Going Over Bumps?. (Check Out Attachment) http://www.100-biker.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15774&stc=1&d=1380296393 P.S. As The Wheel Is Going Clockwise It Pulls The Rocker Down, So It Trys To Pull The Springs Apart Instead Of Compressing Them.

27-09-2013, 04:06 PM
I'm no expert but most leading link set ups I've seen bend backwards on the tube with the rocker returning the wheel to the in line point.


Also the brake stay rod would be more effective if it was mounted lower down the leg. So it doesnt pull the suspension unts down. A problem compounded with the units being mounted so far behind the wheel spindle.


biggus mickus
28-09-2013, 01:40 AM
There's a wealth of information out there on t'interweb!!!
Just returned from the pub and can't be arsed explaining it all.

Cheers, Big Mick! :thumbu:

28-09-2013, 08:01 AM
We need to see a photo rfom the other side.

How it works depends an the way the calliper is mounted.

02-10-2013, 10:37 PM
I'm no expert either but it seems like simple physics to me. The weight of the trike is going forwards, so as you stop (or slow) the front wheel the weight is pushing against your stopping force. Just like if you use the front brake on a bicycle too heavily - you go over the handlebars. Or when a stunt rider uses heavy front braking to do a stoppie. To be honest when I ride my trike with conventional forks up front I use more rear brake than front (more like a bicycle than a motorbike which is the opposite). Too much front brake and the back end can slew around as it's still pushing forwards.

If the springs were mounted to the rear of the fork instead of the front they would compress to take up some of the force. Forks like yours do exist and seem to work (I think Devon Tony built a similar set for his trike) but the geometry has to be right, rake & trail etc. have to be considered by the builder otherwise you'll always have problems.

Bear in mind that conventional forks, upside downs, and factory springers have built in compression and rebound control, either springs or hydraulic valves which control the amount of movement in either direction whereas yours only seem to have springs to soften the ride over bumps.

03-10-2013, 08:01 AM
probably wasting my time as your new and maybe we wont ever see you again on here LOL

but without seeing the important side, ie the brake setup, I bet the caliper is anchored to the swingarm portion, what you want is it mounted to a plate on the spindle, then anchored to the fork link with rose joints.

length of the link should be the same as the distance from swingarm pivot to axle, thus keeping a parrallellogram during movement

your current setup can work well if its heavy front trike, my own build was like you describe, but the trike was front heavy and I built it to actually work as an antidive during braking, and it did work, no brakes and suspension worked, hit the brakes and the front stayed where it was.

you didnt ask for an opinion, but I will give it anyway

no way would I trust that length of forks at that rake. sorry but just my opinion

looks like your using stock bike yokes??? what diameter is that tube?

rest of trike looks like its tidy and smart, front end looks like its about to snap

just my opinion as I say, I know nothing so just "catchphrasing" say what you see :) LOL

put up a decent pic from side on, be interested to see what the trails like, guesstimating from that pic that it possibly hasnt got any or its the wrong way?? hows it handle?

biggus mickus
09-11-2013, 12:05 PM
You've got the caliper anchored to the swingarm, so it want's to rise when you apply the brakes. To stop that you need a floating caliper setup just like the blue one pictured in this thread, where the torque arm is anchored to the fixed fork leg. The amount of dive or rise can be adjusted by altering the relative height of the anchor point in relation to the height of the caliper above the wheel spindle.
Not the best pic, but this is my sidecar leading link setup with floating calipers.
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q25/chopheadmick/xj900%20diversion/camera01-03-12279.jpg (http://s132.photobucket.com/user/chopheadmick/media/xj900%20diversion/camera01-03-12279.jpg.html)
Cheers, Mick.:thumbu:

09-11-2013, 05:39 PM
probably wasting my time as your new and we wont ever see you again on here LOL

mystic tony strikes again... :D

10-11-2013, 09:10 PM
just a few thoughts, i have found that leading link forks generally try to lift the trike on braking, i think and just my opinion that the forks looking in the pic are flexing under the wieght of the trike, and as you brake they are just bending under. The leading link set up works well with less rake, we normally run with about 26 degrees of headstock angle, i think on these longer forks maybe some sort of tele set up might work better.
might be wrong !! just how it looks to me

PS finallly got round to starting mine again!!!!!!!! :thumbsu: