RF600 won't run

[wdavie]

Having sorted out my gs850 I then turned my attention to the wife's RF. Having lay around since last summer the battery was flat as a pancake, however when I charged the battery it wouldn't start. I'm guessing the carbs need cleaned as even with fresh petrol and a squirt of easystart it wouldn't run. What a pain to get to the carbs, give me old aircooled any day, other than cleaning the carbs anything else that might be stopping it running? Cheers Wayne

[kajir]

plugs??
check coil connections aint furred up
sidestand switch connections
has it been damp?
old fuel(seems like it goes off really quickly nowadays)
check the easy stuff first

good luck

[John Hopkins]

not making any noise..safety cut out switch..making all the right noises fuel tap off...

John.

[Grav]

Swear at it in the style of Basil Fawlty. :D

other than that check the cut out switches and stuff that Kajir mentioned.

[wdavie]

Hi guys it's turning over ok and when I spray easy start into it it does try to fire the easy start and I get a bit of backfire. Pretty sure that the carbs must be gummed up, I'll also take the plugs out and clean them, why did Suzuki have to make the plugs so innaccessable though. Will a normal plug socket reach into them. Thanks Wayne

[wdavie]

Well stripped carbs full of luvly varnish, bloody useless new fangled petrol, rebuilt them with cleaned spark plugs, thanks suzuki for making them so bloody difficult to access, fired bike up. It will sit at tickover but when I tried to rev it it died. Should I just leave it running on choke for a while to try to clean things out or is there something else I need to do. Cheers

[wearthefoxhat]

It will sit at tickover but when I tried to rev it it died. Should I just leave it running on choke for a while to try to clean things out or is there something else I need to do. Cheers

Have you checked the air filters?
Are the jets in the carbs blocked?
It could be that the idle jets are clear but the main jets are bunged up.

[John Hopkins]

Are you sure there were no pinholes in the carb diaphragm and that you didn't pinch them on reassembly?

If it will run a good ride and fresh petrol won't do it any harm, I'd keep to local roads for the first 10 miles and open it up a bit to blow the cobwebs out, if it starts to run good fill it up with fresh juice and give it another good blast, then home to bed.

John

[wdavie]

Hi John air filter a bit mucky but nothing too drastic, I checked the jets when i stripped the carbs and gave them a good blast through with carb cleaner, starts fine runs ok on choke but whenever I throttle it or take it off choke it dies

[gothtec]

This sound familier to my CB problems...

[John Hopkins]

Using the choke allows less air to petrol so a richer mix, float too high restricts fuel flow into bowl, insufficient fuel is the problem whatever the cause..so either knackered petrol or petrol filter, or you need to have another look at the carb..if you are sure you did a good job on the carb it has to be the petrol, petrol filter, tank cap vent or fuel tap..can't really see anything else causing the problem..however I would always check the last thing I touched.. But I am very willing to be corrected by better minds than mine.

John.

[wodda]

All of the above but it could also still be the plugs. Iffy plugs can die when you rev.

[harry]

Totally agree John. If a warm engine only runs with the choke on, it has fuel starvation. And yup the last thing touched is the most likely thing to go wrong. As an old mechanic said to me many years ago "20 year old rusty nuts and bolts don't come loose."


Other things to check for fuel starvation include:-

blocked float valves. Which may have a built in filter.

Loose float valves

Blocked fuel pipes.

[kajir]

might be a good idea to make sure the carb to head rubber seals are airtight as that'd cause the same poor running. spray wd40 around the manifolds with the motor ticking over, if the revs rise a little you've got an air leak......
kajir

[John Hopkins]

might be a good idea to make sure the carb to head rubber seals are airtight as that'd cause the same poor running. spray wd40 around the manifolds with the motor ticking over, if the revs rise a little you've got an air leak......
kajir

I think thats the wrong way round..an air leak there would cause high revs..

John.

[kajir]

I think thats the wrong way round..an air leak there would cause high revs..

John.

it was early morning, just reread thread, john , i meant airbox to carb.... rf runs cv carbs which rely on a seal to create a vacuum.....still sage advice in my book tho!!

[mick2]

I think thats the wrong way round..an air leak there would cause high revs..

John.

no he's right enough, if the carb to head rubbers are perished then spraying the wd on them will make the revs rise even more as the wd is drawn in and burnt as added fuel.
a common symptom of these rubbers being knackered is after revving the motor the revs will hang abit before falling down eventually to an idle.

[John Hopkins]

no he's right enough, if the carb to head rubbers are perished then spraying the wd on them will make the revs rise even more as the wd is drawn in and burnt as added fuel.
a common symptom of these rubbers being knackered is after revving the motor the revs will hang abit before falling down eventually to an idle.

That's right, blip the throttle and the bike will start screaming, drop the throttle and it will keep screaming as if the cable has stuck open.

Thats the time to spray something round the mounting rubber.

John

[mick2]

you must do it different from me then john. i always have bike ticking over and spray the wd on the rubbers, if there cracked the revs rise.

[John Hopkins]

Maybe I'm getting confused in my old age..

John.

[harry]

Maybe I'm getting confused in my old age..

John.

Me too.

Having read it seems to me you're both doing the same thing. :confused: