engine mount bolts

[contail]

had to cut the rear engine bolts to get the engine out. the spacers had seized solid.
so, does any one know where i can get replacements. ive tried the google searches, ebay and the paper and mags. and so far no joy. could i get away with using studding from a diy store.

thanks again ade

[matthewmosse]

What bike are they for? Dimentions would be usefull. An easy enough job for someone with a lathe or even just a tap and die set. I'd avoid using studding/ all thead as with the vibration from an engine the treading will eat the engine casings.

[harry]

Studding is a bad idea in this application.

If you closely examine the unthreaded portion of a bolt you will see it's a larger diameter than the threaded bit. This acts as a dowel and should be a good fit in the holes it goes through and prevent sideways movement of the components.
Studding will allow just a tiny amount of movement just like rubbing your hands together. This will loosen the nuts allowing more movement.
This wears the holes out bigger especially ally casings 'cos they'se soft.

If you cant get the right bolts I'd advise a bit of round bar that is an exact fit in the holes and thread it yoursef or get someone to do it for you.

The plain bit needs to go almost all the way through the outer component (Probbly the frame) so use thick washers so that as you do up the nuts the ends of the plain bar can be pulled into the washers. This prevents the nuts tightening on the end of the thread and giving a false impression of being tight.

Good luck

[devon-tony]

just have a measure up and go to local fastners place, black hi tensile socket cap bolts are perfect for the job

[4_stroke]

Treaded stud from the DIY shop is no good. Your bolts need to be high tensile grade 8.8 or better.

[contail]

What bike are they for? Dimentions would be usefull. An easy enough job for someone with a lathe or even just a tap and die set. I'd avoid using studding/ all thead as with the vibration from an engine the treading will eat the engine casings.

there for a gsxr 1100 slabside chop. the bottom bolt and spacer had seized between the engine and frame (see photo), and the top bolt had seized through the engine. i think im going to have to get it drilled out. or replace the engine.

dimensions are : top mounts are measured from the outside of each mount on the frame. 80mm.
bottom mount is 60mm. bolts are 10mm. im gonn try 1 more time to knock the bolt out.

cheers ade

[matthewmosse]

Apply heat if someone has Oxy acet kit then It'll be possible to cut the bolt out as the oxeygen cutting stream won't cut the alloy although that takes care and expensive to rent gear, just really usefull gear too. You could also try using a mig or arc welder to build up the cut off bolt, also getting it hot :thumbu: then twisting it around with mole grips or a pipe wrench. Depends what's available. Also a damn good soak in old engine oil, cola and carb cleaner is capable of freeing things off with some 'perswasion' afterwards. just avoid too much mullering with hammers close in to the casings as you can end up mushrooming the bolt inside the casings which means drilling time.............

[4_stroke]

For bolts up to 100mm long...

http://www.thomassmithfasteners.com/hexagon_bolts_metric.html