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View Full Version : cam chain riviter (mole grips)

contail
06-09-2008, 01:16 PM
just about to do the cam chain but cant find the chain splitter/riviter any where. dont want to use the hammer and block again. so could i get away with using mole grips. or does any one have any other suggestions, cant afford any mishaps as im using the bike later.
cheers
contail
davesatan
06-09-2008, 01:46 PM
hammer and punch
harris
06-09-2008, 05:47 PM
Yup hammer n punch, just remember to have a block behind where your striking to absorb the impact of each blow. Rivetted loadsa chains over the years with this method.;)
contail
07-09-2008, 10:49 AM
Yup hammer n punch, just remember to have a block behind where your striking to absorb the impact of each blow. Rivetted loadsa chains over the years with this method.;)

yep me to. unfortunatly im doing it on my own. wich is why i wondered if i could get away with mole grips. i dont have enough hands to hold every thing. might just have a fag and clean the bike again lol
harris
07-09-2008, 02:31 PM
Even tho the rivets on a cam chain are small I dont think the mole grips will generate enough pressure to flange end properly. Worth a try tho.

Personally Id get a block on the other side n wedge that against your thigh or something while you lean over n work other side with hamer n punch.
Sir Ewok
07-09-2008, 07:34 PM
You could use the mole grips to hold the block (placed next to the rivet) and then punch the rivet. Better if you had two pair of grips, one each side of the pin....
contail
07-09-2008, 08:15 PM
well i found a nice big block. used the hammer and punch but the bloody link twisted. luckily i have a spare. if that doesnt work im gonna modify a G clamp. the mole grips were to fiddly. the weather didnt help either, made me rush the job:(
might just sell some bits and get a proper riveter.........one day
Kylie
07-09-2008, 08:19 PM
Grav and I used the stick a block of wood behind and twat the rivet approach with my drive chain... the rivet has outlasted the chain cos the chains fucked but i can't even find the split link when i look for it!

I just told a mate about this and he said "I've got a chain riveter in the van when you change the chain this time" so looks like i might get to do it proper next time!
dracken1
07-09-2008, 09:32 PM
next time i'll supply you with an endless chain... that way you'll only have to strip the whole engine down;)
and i do not understand why those ural clutch plates don't work either:(
contail
08-09-2008, 03:43 PM
next time i'll supply you with an endless chain... that way you'll only have to strip the whole engine down;)
and i do not understand why those ural clutch plates don't work either:(

well. got carried away at work and decided to start making a splitter/riveter. as for the clucth plates. i havnt had time to look thanks to the bad weather but theres a good chance it is my clutch sleeve. so when i get some good weather im gonna do the lot properly
Lobo
09-09-2008, 11:42 AM
You can buy a proper cam chain riviting tool
def cheaper than a load of bent valves n scrap engine
contail
09-09-2008, 04:01 PM
You can buy a proper cam chain riviting tool
def cheaper than a load of bent valves n scrap engine

if i had the money i would. but i spent it on bits for the bike lol its not costing me anything to make one
Grav
09-09-2008, 04:18 PM
Found this spoon sir!

Chain Breaking & Riveting Kit (http://www.pvrdirect.co.uk/productinfo.aspx?catref=VS779)
Borg
09-09-2008, 04:46 PM
2 hammers, one anvil or flat side on back of link, twat the un mushroomed side with other hammer then tap around the edges with the ball pain bit to shroom it over
Oozee
09-09-2008, 10:47 PM
Found this spoon sir!

Chain Breaking & Riveting Kit (http://www.pvrdirect.co.uk/productinfo.aspx?catref=VS779)

Well done sergeant.
contail
11-09-2008, 03:58 PM
Found this spoon sir!

Chain Breaking & Riveting Kit (http://www.pvrdirect.co.uk/productinfo.aspx?catref=VS779)

cheers grav. saving my pocket money so i can get 1. nearly finished making one too.

cheers
contail
14-09-2008, 10:18 AM
next time i'll supply you with an endless chain... that way you'll only have to strip the whole engine down;)
and i do not understand why those ural clutch plates don't work either:(

next time im going to just replace the engine lol. you was right about the points gap aswel. 2 of the inlet points were set at 7thou should be 10-15 thou. found some thing else to whilst i was stripping the engine. the pick ups arnt shown in the manual. any ideas what they are (could they be of a gsx 750. heres a pic. the book shows only one pic up on the left and a different plate in the middle.
cheers
Sir Ewok
14-09-2008, 06:59 PM
I don't know much about multi cylinder engines, more than two 'tis the devil's work. I is clearly seen that each pick up is numbered 1&4 on the left and 2&3 on the right, so my guess would be that each pick up fires the appropriate plugs simultaneously (or at the same time)......
contail
15-09-2008, 06:10 PM
cheers sir ewok. i understand the firing order ect. but the diagram in the manual shows theres only one pic up and the computer deals with the rest. but mine has been changed for some reason. its not a magor issue as the bike is running. just a curiosity thing realy, but thanks any way.
cheers ade
Sir Ewok
16-09-2008, 01:51 AM
cheers sir ewok. i understand the firing order ect. but the diagram in the manual shows theres only one pic up and the computer deals with the rest. but mine has been changed for some reason. its not a magor issue as the bike is running. just a curiosity thing realy, but thanks any way.
cheers ade

Sorry! Misunderstood the query. I suppose the old one went u/s and was swopped for another unit that did the job as well as the old. There are some smart guys and gals out there that can swop shit from other motors that I would find incredible. I changed my VW trike engine from dynamo to alternator and had one hell of a time. :thumbu: